Judging by the small talk at previews, cocktail parties and dinners over the past few days, the state of the world weighs on designers, executives and just about everyone. The accumulation of problems, from Gaza to Ukraine, the United States migration crisis, the impact on racial equality, women's equality, climate change and the changing climate… is enough to make one want to get into a hole and disappear.
The idea of protection was central to Helmut Lang's collection, Peter Do's second on the runway since he took over as the brand's creative director last year. And the clothes, some almost dystopian in appearance, seem appropriate for the moment.
Do explored several ideas from the archives, starting with opening the white bubble wrap shirt and pants in a new fabrication reworked from Lang's original from the early 2000s. It was a fresher take on the outfit. transparent that also managed to give a feeling of security.
“What Helmut Helmut does is embrace duality. So control versus chaos, protection versus sex appeal,” the designer said in a preview, adding that he was inspired by the concept of the subway shirt, the oversized garments that women unfortunately have to wear to protect themselves against harassment in on hot days. or when they are in clubs wearing very little.
The theme of protection was woven into Do's new all-gender urban uniforms, with side-slit coats with side zippers, quilted utility vests, and padded knit bodycon dresses inspired by astronaut suits.
Treated denim, woven leather (after the cheap plaid shopping bags that have inspired countless designers), and flaky textures elevated everyday pieces like jeans, leather pants, shirt jackets, and knee-high boots. Among the thoughtful details were scarf panels on silk blouses, hoods that wouldn't ruffle hair on bombers, and protective face collars on double-faced wool coats.
The mostly all-black tailoring had a futuristic militarism with waist-shaped blazers and coats buttoned to the neck, long skorts and cargo pants, while hidden turtleneck sweaters were key pieces for covering up and feeling comfortable. .
There were other moments of softness, too, including a fabulous mustard-yellow nylon parka with a bright clutch and sidewalk-grazing knit skirt, or the cement-colored shearling coat, twisted knit top, and pants modeled by Ahn Duong.
Overall, the collection was safer than Do's first effort and more focused. By simplifying the runway choreography, reducing prints, text, and adding buckles and straps, he created a tough new uniform for tough times.
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