When the going gets tough, the tough get together and get going.
Given everything that is happening in the world, Patou artistic director Guillaume Henry wanted to “embrace the idea of a woman who walks with enthusiasm and dignity,” he said backstage. “I really love the idea of dressing a woman who walks and walks towards something more positive.”
To help her on her way, he offered her a realistic wardrobe that showcased her deft touch for outerwear and her knack for attractive proportions.
There were roomy belted coats with XXL pockets, short boxy jackets with shiny buttons, striped shirt separates in pink and blue, pleated belted skirts that swung as the models took their quick turn down the runway.
The colors were urban, all flattering beiges, sophisticated khakis and lots of black. Although the designer had promised that there would be “no extra fun details or distractions,” he still scattered a handful of tone-on-tone floral applications throughout the lineup.
Tributes to Henry's predecessors at the head of the French brand were also mixed. Uniform-inspired gold buttons and lots of ruffles gave a nod to founder Jean Patou. The dramatic volumes, particularly in a final trio of dresses, echoed Christian Lacroix's tenure in haute couture between 1982 and 1987.
There was even a nod to Karl Lagerfeld: Henry said he had enjoyed designing a dress for the 2023 Met Gala that offset his propensity for baring legs with midi and maxi lengths.
Also ready to hit the road was Henry's first shoe design, a shoe with a stable-looking heel and a small platform that marked Patou's first move into the category.
“In Patou, we move forward,” the program notes said. This comprehensive and coherent lineup should have many heading to the store.
