Giorgio Armani staged a trio of star-studded shows on Sunday morning to close Milan Fashion Week, and still found time to criticize outmoded fashion and praise Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni… for her toughness.
So great is the demand for any Armani event, that Giorgio performed three shows in the custom-built exhibition space at his historic Renaissance palace at 41 via Borgonuovo in central Milan.
Between the first two shows, Armani attracted attention at a 15-minute press conference before about 30 editors, speaking quietly but firmly in Italian with his usual self-confidence.
Before drawing an impressive front row that included Cate Blanchett, Chinese actress Liu Shishi, Korean star Ji Chang Wook, Gio perfume global ambassador Aaron Taylor-Johnson, 'Back to Black' director Sam Taylor-Johnson and the new star of Giorgio's menswear campaign, the French actor. Luis Garrel.
This season, Armani turned to one of his most important sources of inspiration, the East, embellishing many looks with chrysanthemums and finishing off beautiful velvet jackets with chinos and silk panels with Chinese images. Above all, using dragonflies and flowers as motifs in an entire collection titled 'Winter Flowers'.
She opened the show with Gina di Bernardo, a veteran Italian beauty who was the face of famous 1980s and 1990s advertising campaigns for Armani's former favorite photographer, Aldo Fallai. Gina appears in a putty gray silk duster, topped by a floral hat. Like many models, she wore flower-print sneakers.
Armani cut soft, languid pants and jackets with structured shoulders; many of them with floral prints or finished with flower embroidery. Although many of the actual jackets were black or midnight blue.
“I love the idea of winter flowers, for the simple reason that there aren't that many in that season,” the designer noted.
For the evening, she won plaudits for some absolutely magical dresses, including an off-the-shoulder emerald green velvet topped with crystal flowers. The show went to a crescendo with the speakers blasting 'L'amour et La Violence' by Sebastien Tellier.
The entire audience joined in prolonged applause as Armani received a 30-second ovation, with a few tears gently falling from one eye.
Pre-show, the 89-year-old designer confessed that “the exciting feeling of doing a show is still the same as when I started.” Before he turned his guns on excessive fashion.
“We have accepted too much nonsense into our world in search of novelty or extravagance. Therefore, it is difficult to create a coherent statement. There is a lot of fashion Our there I would like to cancel it,” he snorted.
When asked about Italian Prime Minister Meloni, who last year became the first far-right leader of a major European democracy, Armani praised her for her toughness.
“I think she had important elements in her figure. She has done it,” she said, holding her hands in two circles to suggest that Meloni had b…. A gesture that caused great laughter among the 30 editors.
“In terms of their policy and strategy, I am not competent to comment. Sometimes I realize that I see it quite small next to the great tall heads of other foreign states in Europe. But also sometimes in photos she can have a very pretty face,” she smiled.
Like many Italian fashion professionals, Armani confessed to being unhappy that Milan compressed so many shows into just four days. He explained that he had written to the Camera della Moda, which governs all catwalk schedules in Milan, to complain.
“My observation is that the season has not been what it should be. Why do all these small foreign designers come here to show something old? Or some absurd style. Who cares, frankly! the Scream.
The great lion of Italian fashion can still roar.
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