After remembering his Neapolitan roots in the spring of 2023, Giuliano Calza went back in time to the fall of 2024, investigating his childhood memories. At first glance, the result couldn't be more different: the light-hearted mood of the first was erased to seemingly be replaced by a new, somber atmosphere.
However, the transition was not immediately visible. Immersed in soft lighting and set to the beat of a live piano performance, the show opened with a series of pristine looks that noded to years of innocence, with sheer textures, ruffled trim and delicate floral appliqués covering inspired pieces. in lingerie for her and nice baggy pants for him. Soft suits and an ankle-length coat with structured shoulders followed in the same color, before darker shades of black, gray and deep burgundy advanced through the lineup.
“I wanted to start with something pure and careless, like you are when you are a child. But then life goes around and around, and then we have to go through a lot of experiences, as you get darker and darker,” Calza said backstage.
The collection marked another step in the brand's evolution towards a more adult direction. Tailored wool coats and a logo fleece version, as well as great-looking leather pieces ranging from blazers and biker jackets to party dresses, designed to win over wardrobe creators for loyal GCDS customers who are also maturing with the brand.
Still, your Peter Pan spirits might be soothed knowing there's always a good pop reference or two in Calza's world. He pointed to the image of the murderous doll “Chucky” looming menacingly on a hoodie, while nods to Calza's favorite Dracula were printed on cargo pants or crystallized on a strapless minidress. Hello Kitty was apparently integrated into patterns that looked like floral graphics from afar or turned into metallic bras peeking out from tight dresses. Mattel Inc.'s miniature Polly Pocket trinkets sent out as show invitations also reported new versions of GCDS's signature heart-shaped bags.
“I like the idea of not giving up smiles and fun,” Calza said. “But in such dramatic, dark times, we have to find a way to remind ourselves that not only are we going to be a part of this moment in history, but we can take a stand. And even living life with a smile is a very good posture right now.”
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