What does Gabriela Hearst have in common with the Neolithic henge monument in Avebury, England?
Both give off an unreal energy that you must experience to understand, the former palpable even via Zoom on an iPad in her Paris showroom, where the designer flipped through photos of her resort collection captured at this prehistoric site, model Jessica Miller whipping her long hair and pulling out the hem of her mesh dress, channeling the pagan spirit of the place and the clothing.
“It really felt like we were on a pilgrimage,” said Hearst, captivated by the site's 3,500 years of mystical journeys.
A wild, magical energy simmered beneath the surface of Heart's almost monastic designs, which include wraparound leather capes, attached lace columns, fringed coats with tulip cuffs, and pretty linen dresses with full skirts.
They were all photographed with one of the 98 huge stones, arranged in a circular formation, in the background.
The colors of sunrise and sunset added zest and personality to the tailored jackets and coats, some of which resembled gradient skies that Hearst sketched in gouache. Others had blurry patterns, including one, as Hearst explained, holding an incense burner he bought in Tulum, Mexico, inspired by spiraling smoke.
With its simple lines, earthy colors and a clever bohemian touch, the collection exuded a scent of both the '70s and antiquity.
This beautiful offering also came loaded with new ideas, including Heart's first cowboy boots, executed by a credible designer who grew up on a ranch in Uruguay and is as tall as she is, and a host of knit bags made in the same loop. and rhinestone threads used for dresses.
It all came in sumptuous fabrics that were divine to the touch, including high-pile velvets, fleshy cashmeres of almost impossible softness, and a fresh, crisp Sea Island cotton that is grown by a small community in Barbados, the plants growing only with water from rain.
“We call it cotton cashmere because you can only buy it in small batches,” Hearst said, noting that he also used it for a corduroy that practically melts between your fingers. “Everything has to have a hand and quality, and this for me is non-negotiable.”
As for those swirling prints inspired by incense and swirl-patterned lace, Hearst gave them a badass twist, using New York graffiti terms: “This is my label.”
