While all eyes are on Paris for the Olympic Games, another group of their compatriots brought another famous know-how to the Big Apple: underwear. During the key lingerie fair, Curve, at the Jacob Javits Center from August 4 to 6,Lingerie Francaise, in collaboration with DEFI, the Committee for the Development and Promotion of French Apparel, held its annual exhibition highlighting its signature lace lingerie. The national trade organization for the promotion of the corsetry industry, which hosted its event in the glass-walled space of the Loeb Boathouse in Central Park, highlighted brands Aubade, Simon Pérèle, Chantelle and Chantelle X, Lise Charmel and sister labels Antigel, Empreinte and Louisa Bracq.
While the event culminated in the evening with chic but scantily clad models walking the runway, the day began with a lingerie talk led by bra educator and lingerie influencer Kimmay Caldwell @HurrayKimmay on how to be confident in lingerie, which was attended by other media influencers. “Kimmay spoke to the crowd to consider the importance of the ritual of wearing lingerie. She asked the audience to care about their bras as they are the closest thing to their hearts,” said Laura Angelone, social media manager for Lingerie Francaise.
Caldwell also noted that the French find this to be much more appropriate, which Angelone said sets the industry apart from its American counterparts.
“Here, we don’t talk about size, but rather about feeling comfortable in your lingerie, which is important, but in France, we promote bra fitting sessions and we emphasise the fact that every woman is unique,” she continued, adding: “The most common mistake is that women don’t really know their bra size and they complain about how they feel. In most cases, it’s because they don’t fit properly. It’s not an exact science – it can vary from bra to bra. Once you learn about your body and your body shape, you might choose a size up or down.”
Sandra Jones, Lise Charmel and director of Antigel for North America, noted that another distinctive facet of French lingerie compared to American lingerie is that in the U.S. lingerie is seen as more functional, whereas in France it is more of a part of the outfit. “The French want more elegance in their underwear. The approach in the U.S. is different; it dictated the trend of nude tones in the market,” she said.
In Europe, lingerie stores are different: “In Europe, like a coffee shop, there is a lingerie store everywhere. You practically have to go to another state to find another one here. The ratio is 10 to 1,” Jones continued, referring to the neighborhood multi-brand lingerie boutiques. Thus, the American department store, practically an endangered species, is one of the few places where you can find multiple brands in one place. Even with vertical brands, in the United States there was only Victoria’s Secret, so European brands Intimissimi and Etam have opened here. Jones said the United States makes up about 12 percent of its global market distribution, which includes 43 countries, and its presence is expanding here.
Lise Charmel, which preserves centuries-old craftsmanship, is also innovative. Jones was excited about the introduction of a metallic lamination process in the brand's “Eclat d'Or” collection for fall 2024.
“We use a very precise coating on a high-quality embroidery technique, which turns the lingerie into a wearable piece of jewellery,” she said.
Craftsmanship and innovation are also Louisa Bracq’s raison d’être. While the eponymous brand was founded in 1938 as an embroidery house, in 2007 they launched a lingerie brand that is now run by members of the third generation of the family. Located in Calais, France’s leading lace city, Louisa Bracq focuses on haute couture embroidery and fabrics and specialises in sizes ranging from A cup to K cup.
According to export director Yana Vitukhovskaya, the brand has been active in the United States for about six years and has a strong business relationship with West Coast-based specialty retailer Jenette Bras, which specializes in DK cup bra sizes.
“It was founded by an actress, so it has a customer base of celebrities, stylists and personal shoppers. We need to sell our bras in stores with a good bra specialist, as the sizes are very specific,” Vitukhovskaya continued.
Louisa Bracq, marketing director of Ulyana Sukach, stressed that French lingerie is different but also aims to preserve the artisanal character of Calais and the surrounding villages.
“This brand passes down tradition and know-how from generation to generation, so today it is a collaboration of know-how and innovation from generations. We use quality European fabrics, such as silks, made in the same factory as Hermes. We cannot use organic cotton as in the case of plus sizes; you need fabrics that offer more support,” she said, noting that many facets of the process are carried out at its headquarters in the French region of Cambrai, the historic heart of French embroidery. And probably where the elegant French brasserie was created.
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