“I like the clouds… the passing clouds… from there… from there… the wonderful clouds! These verses by Charles Baudelaire were read, along with texts by other poets such as Verlaine and Paul Eluard. , almost whispered, in the center of an old cobblestone courtyard, the actress Catherine Wilkening, dressed in a small paletot of bright lace and guipure and a long, dark, wispy skirt with white polka dots. The tone was set for autumn winter 2024/. 25, Franck Sorbier chose to vary the theme of the cottony clouds that he sees floating in the sky from the skylight of his bedroom.
The result is a poetic collection of dresses in weather hues and cloud silhouettes, all in bubbly tulle, presented in a static presentation on the third day of Haute Couture Week on Wednesday in a historic building in the 17th arrondissement of Paris occupied by the FTPA law firm. Models with high buns like ballerinas unwrapped their arms with elegant movements, standing on clouds of white fabric. In one corner, a man in a black tailcoat and bowler hat took shelter under an umbrella, a mischievous nod to René Magritte's cloudy paintings.
There is a lot of bad weather in this collection. It is not the milky clouds that attract the Parisian couturier, but the dark rain clouds. With the exception of an all-white, doll-like garment worn by Vietnamese Instagrammer Jessica Minh Anh – a fan of the house – and a few blue ensembles, most of the collection featured grey tones, obtained by starting from a white or ecru background and covering it with a black veil. “It is never a well-defined cloud, it is always a bit blurred between black and white, leaning more towards grey,” explains the designer.
Tulle, particularly polka-dot flocked tulle or point d'esprit, took over a low-back jacket, a full petticoat, a ballgown skirt, a draped shawl and a tunic, in a riot of gathers and draping effects. sparkling. A layer of black organza filaments looked as if it had been torn apart. “I thought of Juliette Greco while she was making this collection. She has an existentialist side,” says the designer, justifying the dark palette.
Other creations take a more graphic approach to clouds. For example, a long black batwing coat made of boiled wool is adorned with scaly clouds embroidered with silver thread between two layers of tulle, while metallic sequins fall like rain. On the other hand, Isabelle Tartière, the couturier's wife and right-hand woman, hand-painted a short wool and silk coat with blue skies and gray clouds. The designer then embroidered rain lines on the top.
Finally, a wool peacoat was covered with metallic organza and silver-flecked tulle to create a milky way effect. Franck Sorbier added a final cloudy touch by applying pieces of metallic silk organza, which he covered for relief. Using the same technique, he sewed scrolls and arabesques of draped blue tulle onto a turquoise flared skirt, while gathering the top of the same material and color to create a bolero in the form of a mini quilted coat.
“This season I wanted to enjoy something more unctuous and flexible. The cloud is often associated with an idea of innocence, childhood and escape. The idea of a cocoon, which we need right now,” says the designer. “In fact, I invite people to look more often at the sky and allow themselves to be contemplated. In a way, it is a call to dream,” he says.
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