A somber, wartime atmosphere pervaded Ferragamo's fall show, reinforced by the gloom of the venue with its few wooden seats, the moving processional music, and the collection, which opened with military green officer's coats. and then moved on to belted leather trench coats and tall crepe dresses. -Boots with soles.
Thick belts with trapunto stitching were the dominant and memorable detail, falling from the hips of heavy, boxy wool coats, hugging the shoulders in unconventional little capes or spilling out of floaty cocktail dresses.
There were moments of levity with feather shoes, the utilitarian men's HotPants and a red jersey dress with its cut-out hem and drape tangled around the legs.
The fish-scale dresses, here composed of shiny patent leather discs, and the artistic motifs on other garments recalled recent Bottega Veneta shows.
Backstage, Ferragamo creative director Maximilian Davis said his archival research focused on the 1920s, and his inspiration images, distributed in a booklet along with the invitation, show founder Salvatore Ferragamo slipping on a Ferragamo shoe. conical heel on Joan Crawford's right foot in the Hollywood Boot. Trade.
Davis imagined women entering speakeasies with their embroidered ball gowns hidden under wrap-around, manly coats.
In a backstage meeting, he said he wanted to capture the celebratory mood of that era, seen in his handsome men's dress coats and striking slip dresses composed of intricate garlands of delicate fringes.
Unifying details, including hardware on the shoes that also appeared as jacquards on the clothing, and a palette of army greens and thick browns, made the clothes more identifiable than her recent Ferragamo efforts.
Now all you need to do is lighten the mood.
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