Who knew that Silvia Venturini Fendi has a country house where she keeps chickens and produces her own pecorino Romano, ricotta cheese and also sheep's milk mozzarella? And who would have thought that she considers Princess Anne something of a fashion idol with her classic, outdoorsy style based on many archetypes of men's clothing?
Cue a Fendi fall men's collection that could be summed up as a hyper-luxe issue of Field & Stream magazine come to life. Fisherman's coats, waxed field jackets and loden coats were treated with the inimitable delicacy of the Roman house, with chamois collars embossed to resemble corduroy. Meanwhile, super-wide-waisted corduroy pants were more luxurious than a bathrobe at a five-star hotel, and slouchy Wellington-style boots came in leather.
The lush textures, rich forest colors, fresh cast, and fast-paced techno soundtrack all contributed to making this a spectacular show.
“A city and country look” is how Venturini Fendi described the collection, which combined both urban and outdoor clothing. Long, flared leather coats would fall into the first category; those with raglan sleeves with striking checks on the latter.
Knitted “twin sets,” usually polos paired with cardigans, fell somewhere in the middle of that divide, as did Selleria’s pretty leather coats and boat shoes with chunky rubber soles. The blouses and jackets made of sheep's wool, shaved to create trompe-l'oeil seams and pockets, were sensational.
In a nod to Balmoral, Venturini Fendi evoked the spirit of the Scottish kilt with wide trousers with knife-shaped pleats on the outer seams, which were surprisingly elegant. The drop-crotch, skirt-like shorts were slouchy, but they didn't break the spell of this great collection.
Oh, and here's one more thing you might not have known about Venturini Fendi: she's a big fan of electronic music. She explains the bespoke soundtrack by Vascellari and Rocco Rampino, and the only high-tech element in the show: an orb-shaped speaker made in collaboration with high-end French audio firm Devialet.
The designer realized that the younger generations live with music almost 24 hours a day, including her 16-year-old niece. “She always comes in with a speaker, so I thought, 'Well, that's a good idea.'”
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