Fendi, sensual and minimalist chic for a cosmic lady

On Thursday, Fendi presented a very chic collection of sober, fitted silhouettes in a rigorous monochrome. For Spring-Summer 2024 couture, creative director Kim Jones, who also oversees women's ready-to-wear in addition to Dior's men's collections, continued to explore minimalist fashion as he did last season. He imagined a sensual woman with a futuristic touch, highlighting incredible textures.

The show opened with total black or white looks of minimalist elegance and simplicity. Strapless dresses that fell to the calves, fitted dresses in ultra-fine knit woven from a blend of cashmere and vicuna yarns, and men's jackets in masculine wool. Crocodile skin top and skirt sets, a material that is also used to make small jackets and coats.

This austerity was overcome by a touch of sensuality here and there. For example, in the vestal tunics made of transparent chiffon or silk gazar, or in the lace details that evoked the art of shibari (Japanese bondage), as well as in the tied tops that covered only the chest and wrapped around the neck. and back.

Fluctuating, shimmering effects also added a magnetic energy to the ensemble, with bubbly skirts made from metallic fringe sprinkled with sequins. These garland-shaped decorations also took over the forearms of glamorous gloves and some bags.

Much research has been done on the topic of textures, where the Roman house of the LVMH group seems to have transposed the refined artisanal techniques developed in leather, its main original activity. For example, fringes of a yarn that was both silky and stiff looked like silver fur on a long coat or brown fur on a voluminous jacket. Hand-embroidered fringes in the shape of extra-light feathers moved sinuously, as on certain pelisses, on bronze-colored skirts and on a long blue-green dress.

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The galactic spirit was underlined by light, futuristic glasses and a series of shiny silver suits. From asymmetrical dresses in black and white tones, adorned with a constellation of crystals, to body-hugging mesh dresses, a mermaid ensemble with reflective scales and a shell suit to board a silver-plated space shuttle.

At the end of the show, Kim Jones, whose future at Fendi appears to be in jeopardy, was greeted very briefly. In the front row of the show, held once again at the Brongniart Palace, was the actress Adèle Exarchopoulos, as well as a large number of executives from the luxury group, including the CEO of Fendi, Serge Brunschwig, Michaël Burke, who now directs LVMH's fashion division, and its predecessor. Sidney Toledo.