There was an affinity between the feminine-masculine duality imbued in Feben's first solo exhibition in Milan and the designs of Dolce & Gabbana, which supported the London-based Ethiopian designer's exhibition as part of its ongoing project supporting young names .
Previous guest designers Karoline Vitto and Miss Sohee sat front row to watch the parade of feminine tulle dresses, which alternated with graphic blazer jackets and tailored trousers with ankle cuffs and jewels. The presence of the designers was a testament to the community-building and diversity aspect of the project, reinforced by the casting of Feben, directed by Ashley Graham.
“I think the reason you're not seeing [diversity] “There are a lot of black women in creative roles,” she said backstage. “That's really important, because obviously I want to feel seen and I think anyone should feel seen no matter what body type and skin color they have. And I think it's really important to have more people from different parts of the world. That makes a big difference.”
Her tight-fitting clothes were a highlight. He reworked the ruching technique from his Twist dress, which dates back to his days at Central Saint Martins, in crushed velvet, opting for acid green and electric blue colors to heighten the impact.
In the same vein, he introduced other striking elements through pointed textures inspired by the work of artist Simone Yvette Leigh and her nods to African architectural traditions. The designer opted for a softer version of the reference, covering sheer dresses and tank tops with hand-sewn mesh spikes.
Diving into the Dolce & Gabbana archives, Feben connected with '90s animal prints, so she added tiger-print dresses and jersey inserts. The prints were developed in Italy, London and Accra, where the designer worked with artisans to make the recycled plastic beads that decorated chaps, jewelry and bags.
“It's always a challenge to create a collection: each look is like your baby's and sometimes you have to edit it. That's pretty difficult. Sometimes you have to kill your loved ones,” she said. As painful as they are, quilting and quilted pieces with buttons should have fallen into this category.
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