excellence alaïa

Although technically Pieter Mulier's last collection for the Alaïa house was ready-to-wear, the sheer sublimity of the garments suggested that it was the most original haute couture of the season.

Presented on Tuesday night, midway through the Paris couture season, inside Alaïa's boutique on central rue Marignan, this was a superlative effort from Mulier. Their sublime silhouettes, novel but always elegant proportions, and rigorous editing made this look like a fashion moment.

Organized as the French like to say in small committee, or before a small gang, of about 60 people in three tight shows.

The key material of the opening was multiple strands of twisted woven merino wool, shaped into tunics, curvy cocktails and bodysuits with billowing legs, in a fresh fashion vernacular.

Pieter cut with real drama: femme fatale coats from the French Revolution, dresses cut like asymmetrical dresses or a series of great denim harem pants.

Weaving dense clouds of wool into cocoon-like coats or as puffy balls around the wrists of elegant cocktail dresses and dynamic tutus. The minimalist bandolier coats were so Alaïa that you thought the master was still alive. While a billowing, accordion-pleated dress in inky blue garnered an audible ripple of approval, as Mulier was brave enough to break new ground.

The vibe managed to be artistic, intellectual, and yet also sexy—an amazing balancing act. Obviously, the entire cast was excited, clearly enjoying wearing the clothes – the professional models felt the importance of the collection. The audience, seated on diamond-shaped sofas, seemed to breathe visibly faster.

“I always wanted Alaïa to be more than just clothes. Because it's… It's about life and being together,” Mulier said.

At first glance, you could say that Mulier has the ideal job, able to play with the immensely powerful DNA developed over four decades by Azzedine Alaïa.

But that would be a mistake, as many people have very defined ideas about what Alaïa represents, which makes progress difficult. But this afternoon in Paris with a ready-to-wear show during haute couture, Mulier truly asserted his right to carry the mantle of Alaïa. So far, the best collection in the world this year.