Eudon Choi's pre-fall 2024 collection was a meditation on the pragmatic staples of the brand's wardrobe: elegant suits with a subversive edge.
Choi said he was inspired by the paintings and sculptures of Lee Ufan, a South Korean artist who pioneered the Mono-Ha movement in Japan that prevailed in the mid-1960s.
The movement, which translates as School of Things, takes a step back from traditional art and explores industrialization. Take Ufan’s “Correspondence” series from 1991, in which crushed stone pigment was splashed onto canvas, or the “Relatum” sculptures, which were composed of Rocks placed on iron plates.
Choi pointed to Ufan's works in the collection's muted color palette: neutrals (tan, black, white) nestled in soft pale blues and deep navy. A midi skirt, belted trousers and a long dress with a plunging neckline featured a pattern of painterly brush strokes on satin fabric in another ode to the artist.
Spanning wool outerwear, cashmere knits, tailoring and dresses, the line is sure to resonate with its customer base and those looking to build their collection of subversive basics.
Throughout there was “an undercurrent of '90s minimalism,” Choi explained, something seen in pieces like a trench coat with convertible details that allows the wearer to play with their silhouette; a pair of straight pants with attached belt; a series of bias-cut satin skirts and a long-sleeved column dress, complete with shoulder slits.
