Erdem Moralioglu's tailoring, bespoke and made-to-measure business is booming, and the designer has capitalized on that momentum with his latest offering, which he described as “a menswear collection for women.”
Inspired by the socialites and bohemians of the 1920s, a time when women began wearing pants and sportswear from men's closets, Moralioglu created a colorful wardrobe that ranged from discreet and luxurious.
The classic fabrics and shapes of British menswear were very present and had unexpected embellishments. A tall embroidered carnation sprouted on the side of a sturdy black-and-white checkered coat, while crystal leaves fell on a double-breasted coat. The designer attached a lush arsenic green fabric flower to the lapel.
There was plenty of tailoring in the form of an oversized blue pantsuit with tone-on-tone embroidery and a plaid skirt suit printed with large somber flowers. Knitwear played a starring role and included chunky, cropped V-neck sweaters in gray or lavender adorned with crocheted flowers planted like bouquets across the chest.
The collection leaned toward daywear and included fitted dresses with long, vertical pleats as soft and comfortable as nightgowns, and a line of floral-filled skirts paired with matching oversized men's shirts.
The evening dresses had a restrained art deco feel and delicate embellishments. A midnight blue liquid dress had a single pleat at the waist and the outline of a sequin-highlighted flower on the side, while a flapper slip came adorned with sparkling floral swirls and crystal fringe.
Moralioglu worked everything with a light touch and managed to achieve that complicated balance, marrying the masculine with the feminine.
