Start spreading the word: Emilia Wickstead can't get enough of New York City. After photographing her 2024 tourism campaign uptown, downtown, and on the Staten Island Ferry, she time-traveled back to the Empire City to create a collection inspired by mid-century fashion.
A New Zealand native who worked briefly in New York early in her career, Wickstead focused specifically on women: the socialites, academics, beatniks and jazz clubbers who helped form the city's glittering mosaic.
Models walked the runway to jazz tunes, wearing crumpled minidresses adorned with flowers with a 1960s vibe; leotard tops with long ballerina skirts; and oversized fur-trimmed coats.
Book lovers paired youthful V-neck sweaters and collared shirts with bright, flower-adorned skirts and sheer black knee-high socks. The outfits featured striking color combinations (an emerging trend this season) such as brown, blue and mustard; or black, bright pink and camel.
Some of the tailored suits and elegant dresses were adorned with pillbox hats, a nod to Jacqueline Kennedy, while the evening designs were covered in a shower of sequins. Long sleeveless or strapless dresses shined in shades such as acid green, eggplant and black.
While this show had swagger, it was often difficult to see everything Wickstead had to offer.
The venue was in a basement and the dark dance floor was illuminated by bright overhead lights, presumably meant to channel those cool clubs and beatnik hangouts. Wickstead would have done better to bring those elegant ladies out of the shadows and onto a bigger, brighter stage.
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