These are my classifications of the 12 best male clothing collections in the race that ended Sunday night in Paris, list in chronological order. A season characterized by rampant color, elegant historicism, hybrid fabrics and a battle on the future of tailoring, deconstructing or not? Enter the Renaissance of male refinement.
Zegna
Although this collection was presented at Dubai's opera, it was still easily one of the best ideas of new ideas in Europe. Recycled fabrics or hybrid threads; Deconstruction of the whisper of the whisper; and the first of many vertical striped pajamas costumes of an inch in clear silk voiles. In a word, Alessandro Sartori at his best. Welcome to the lightest of the layers.
Post file faction (PAF)
Something of a moment of rupture for the co -founder of Post Archive Facion (PAF) Dongjoon Lim, whose hard and street style encounter was revealing. Rigid dandy pajamas costumes in high tones towel material; Blazers de Crepe of gauze that felt like light scrubber pads; or dry linen shirts by the desert presented to great applause inside Stazione Leopold. Much Pitti's outstanding fashion parade.
Dolce and Gabbana
Wait a long and hot summer in 2026, ideally when I use the latest of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Stripes, stripes and more stripes, which lead at the end where two scores of hirsute male models marched in pajama pants, jackets, shorts and suits, all described with glass, jet and wisdom. Casualwear Chic conquers everything.
Brioni
A moment of grace, and extreme lightness, in Brioni, presented in a palazzo that once belonged to the Casati family, whose Maria Luisa Casati, the artist muse and the style icon, inspired one of John Galliano's best shows. From the perfectly cut pale -chal -neck silk tuxedo, where adding enzymes reduced the brightness, to a beige tuxedo embroidered with real gold thread in small designs of the famous Brioni plant in the Abruzzi region, this was the best example of sartorial style Haute. And one thousand miles of AI.
Giorgio Armani
Giorgio lost his signature show due to poor health, and lacked an edition. But it was still the best selection of super deconstructed summer costumes made of silk and pajamas fabrics. Giorgio's pantheller polished realize at its best. Even absent, Armani remains the biggest tailor of male clothes.
Louis Vuitton
Snakes and Sadders Chic by Pharrell Williams and his best collection so far for Louis Vuitton, organized in a massive way and music that occurs outside the Pompidou center. The salary land that arrives in the excellent fresh salary of Williams: from double Snappy Pop Star jackets used with chopped pants, to micro blazers and pants with wide folds, very album cover very David Live in Paris. Add “tailor” to the Pharrell professions list, after the producer, Rockstar, Dandy and Dad.
Grace Wales Bonner
In a season defined by the Kicky Sailoring Renaissance, Grace Wales Bonner was completely in the area with his combination of Afro -Caribbean style that meets active sports. Magro suits with increasingly clean pants and jackets with contrast necklaces; Crombies Accessories with Diamond Baobab flower brooches and bonds courtesy of Stephen Jones, and the best night clothes in male clothing. All anchored by some incredible and 3 incredible field shoes.
Issey Miyake
After a Homme Plissé collection too restricted in Pitti, the “dance texture” collection of the house, in the fondation cartier, which will soon be related again, was a real beauty.
Performance Dance Art complied with adventurous design, fabrics and color. Like the Yuki Itakura design trio, Sen Kawahara and Nobutaka Kobayashi showed scale motifs that echoed in costumes, tunics, kimono jackets and draped gabardines, made in tones of acidic greens, violet blue and dazzling turquoise. The color palette of the season and a lesson for the great boys on how to stand out in a crowd.
Dries van Notten
Very noisy the applause of the season was for the debut of the male clothes of Dries Van Noten, where female fabrics and tones met with the adaptation of fluid male clothing. Renewed and undulating opera coats; Double chest blazers with noble volumes; pale trench with shoulders with glass edges; Silk tops in eduardian rugby shirt colors with Plissé pajamas pants. These were the clothes that the cast most enjoyed in June. Always a revealing signal.
Dior
In the biggest debut of the season, Jonathan Anderson in Dior, the Irish of the north zoned in the DNA of the house, especially women's clothing designs of Monsieur Dior's own, to create a powerful and skated fashion statement. Like the famous Monsieur bar jacket, whipped in Donegal Tweed. Or the Monsieur Autumn Multifold Delft dress of 1948 made in silk faille that was transformed into multi -sheet white denim loads. Or the coat of Moiré with Pustouncy of 1952 by Christian, La Cigale, which became the great coats of men. Direct the DNA of Dior upside down during the 21st century, and approximately the time too.
Craig Green
The most fertile imagination in male clothes, Craig Green helped close the season with a show that was simply sensational. Riffing through materials, times, cultural references and various artistic moods, Green developed a psychedelic fantasy inspired by Beatles that minor talents can only dream even of imagining. While its multiple and tied and tied opening directly were the best and most bold of the season.
Tortoise
Takuya Morikawa of Taakk organized the final official show of Paris's male clothes, and talks about a sweet F-Finale. Morikawa wants men to be sophisticated next summer, with all kinds of dyeing innovative processes and details to improve the silhouette. Elegant layers of light were administered through multiple sculptural embroidery, made in tapes extracted from the same fabric as the garment. The Dévoré technique, together with the foam printing processes, created indistinct merges of printed motifs, embroidery and gradient effects. Elegant surface at your best.
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