Three historical brands organized very different shows chronologically in Paris on Sunday: Akris, Valentino and Balenciaga. Its extreme differences are an expression of the wealth of the most important track season in the world.
AKRIS: Smart girls clothes
If one really wants to know what the world's lady's decision makers will use next winter, then an ideal place to start is in an Akris parade.
Although the greatest advance was in a new series of quite notable materials: the high -crest corduroy class that is seen in excellent coats or fur dresses in impeccable wool mixtures.
Albert Krameler's great idea was expressed by the word Cyan, a Greek word that denotes a certain blue tone. But, in the end, working with a variety of blue (indigo, cobalt, blue, lapis, admiral and, of course, midnight, often flattered by the accessories, the feathers cutting pumps, bags or earrings.
Few brands create a more complete wardrobe than Akris. Perfectly polished costumes to organize meetings of the Board or Treaties to sign; The elegant grenadier cuts to Parkas or denim dusters for weekend walks.
Artal cocktails for art openings; or great dresses for the state opera of Vienna or the MET in New York.
This season, Albert joined the artist Alyson Shotz, and the resulting spiral and smoked prints were used in the pods of galleries or dramatic coat owners.
Everything working together in a hyperchado show organized perfectly within the remarkable medieval church College Des Bernardins, just across the Sena de Notre Dame. Win Albert's confidence with himself but rather shy as one of the greatest ovations of his historic career.
Work with a new DJ Terence Fixmer to create a soundtrack that will be ethereal and industrial at the same time. Known for turning inside the dark and crazy nightclub in Berlin, Berghain, where the holidays can last three days. Leading one to ask Mittel's great intellect of European fashion, Albert, had he gone to discos there?
A question that encountered an open mouth, a swallow and a slightly small child shrugged, but not a yes or no. Suggesting that Krameler was not familiar with the dark side of Berlin.
Valentino: Gray gardens in a Berlin nightclub bathroom
Sometimes, seeing this latest collection of Alessandro Michele, he found himself asking if Michele had signed to work for Valentino, or if Valentino signed to work for Michele, or that, self -complantation, it was the whole event.
The guests were invited to a large and sweaty black box along the Seine, to be surrounded by some 70 bath cubicles, all inside the store painted in the sinful red of the founder Valentino Garavani. Pre-show, Michele's old friend Jared Leto, and several K-Pop stars turned to become cheap bath mirrors, again bathed in red fluorescent light.
Finally, the show began when the cast took turns out of its red cubicles to a thunderous soundtrack. After that, it was the case of the usual suspects of Michele. However, fortunately, Alessandro is a sufficiently inventive designer, so the combinations looked fresh.
Opening with clear pants costumes; o Maximum shoulder skirt costumes with three -inch leather moldings. But, since we were in a bathroom, adding a good transgressive tablespoon. Starring girls in panties and defaired leotards in the crotch; some in bustiers and satin jeans; and others with long silk skirts and fluids covered by transparent mesh blouses.
The cast was made with pale and gothic makeup, endless headbands of Edie Beale Beale and sunglasses. It is not what most women use within public bathrooms, especially in Berlin, or Ibiza.
The show had some kicky clothes: beautifully draped silk tape cocktails; Lace dresses with silver and dresses with snake skin print. And for the boys, Debonair Blazers; or Dougomo Dragomo Discussion jackets that are used with red silk hunting shirts; and a fabulous dress robe/coat on the neck on the beige back.
No one could accuse Alessandro of not having a fertile imagination. Although it is enough why he chose the checkered sneakers, the type of finding in discount containers on 14th Street, was difficult to understand.
The show that ends with thunderous music, a mixture of classic and industrial that includes a remix of “Ailanthus” by Julia Kent. A bombastic, but not brilliant show.
Balenciaga: pure and without adulterating
Those who love that their fashion is dark, hard, out of time and frequently for all climate should not have lost the last show of Balenciaga by the designer Demna.
The naked needs of a show this season, with a narrow and claustrophobic catwalk with 20 -feet curtains on each side. All element of the Black program.
A strong public warning of an MC to take our seats and a minute of “Luna Sonata” by Dr. Death + Mr. Vile, before falling into the unique world of Demon.
Opening with simple basic concepts: a guy in black suit and tie that could have passed for the security show. A boy with dark pants and vest that could have been uniqlo. Then, the action began with Deague Daguerrotypes: a reddish jacket from Matelassé Hyper Cool, for boys and girls; A leather redingote of God Rock; A grooved point for boys who reached the knee.
A lot of refugee style that return, with types in broken sleeves; Outback rider boots and denim jackets with such large leather hoods all the face was hidden.
In the end, this was a show of a statement, of a gentleman who was a refugee of Sokhumi, the capital of the Georgian province of Abjasia, a state of separatist bandit imposed on the local population by Putin.
Refugee Chic is not just a modern style statement. It is an indication in a parade of the price dangerously possible that Eastern Europe could pay for the hug of Donald Trump of the totalitarian leader of Russia.
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