Dior: Jonathan Anderson debuts with a new novel look

In a debut season, the greatest so far was in Dior on Wednesday, where Jonathan Anderson debuted at Women's Wear spectacularly with a new new vision of the famous appearance of the house.

Or a new appearance rather, since Anderson referred to many of the first creations of Monsieur Dior, and more than a dozen bar jackets, although in their own terms.

The show space established, created by film director Luca Guadagnino, for whom Anderson wore the main actors in his tennis film “Challengers”, focused on an inverted pyramid. Like Dior's previous shows, the show tent was built on the largest source inside the mourae.

Starting the action not with clothes, but with a blunt video of Agit-Prop filmed by one of Anderson's heroes, the documentary filmmaker Adam Curtis, whose remarkable documentary “Hypernormalization” “really changed my life. It's about how society came to where we are today, 'said Anderson in a preview of the morning prior to the show.

The video proved to be excellent: a mixture worthy of the zoo of the most outstanding aspects of Dior: Monsieur Dior Looking Stern; Gianfranco Ferré in an adjustment; John Galliano in a space suit; and a brilliant compendium of great shows with classic films clips where Dior wore stars like Marlene Dietrich. It produced a great roar of applause.

Anderson then opened with a new striking dress, made of two silk lengths tied in two large knots, sculpted on an inner structure, which prepares the scene for a highly experimental show.

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He showed multiple versions of the bars jacket: elongated as in the original, although combined with his load shorts of multiple dior male clothing; or undulating and flying on the back to stand out; or cut large into a voluminous layer. Think about the hybrid bar jacket. Or what Jonathan called “expanding the proposition in a different type of universe.”

The designer born in Northern Ireland also played with many jersey or puppy fabrics, combining some with clusters of fabric hydrangeas, an abstract version of which he had already seen at the Toronto Film Festival in Anya Taylor-Joy, who sat in the front row. He also raised some ideas of his debut in men's clothes with some excellent fraks: Eduardian style shirts and shorts. His fabrics were often mixtures of classic dior, such as Silk Mohair, with the traditional JW cotton sarga.

In a first row of high resistance, the Patron of LVMH and the owner of Dior, Bernard Arnault, sat happily chatting with Brigitte Macron to his left and Charlize Theron to his right. However, the biggest photo was Johnny Depp with a gray dior suit and a gangster hat.

There were so many designers present that he felt as if Jonathan had opened a Montessori school for mature students: Rick Owens, Glenn Martens, Stefano Pilati, Chitose Abe, Nicolas Di Felice, Christian Louboutin, Camille Miceli, Alessandro Michele, Kris Van Assche and Simone Bellotti.

As in his debut in Dior male clothes in June, he played a lot with the neckline, discovering a high lace collar of Saint Laurent of the 60s, a radical appearance and a necklace that in a helmet on the floor.

Taking into account Curtis's video, Anderson explained: “In a strange way … it was what my brain was like during the last two months. You know, Dior is great. The brand is large and, ultimately, the imagination of the brand in the public eye is large. The camp “.

Finest hats lovers will also worship this show: take the bar hat and turn it on themselves, or cut others in tricornos such as airplane wings or renewing the nun's cornets. He also scored with a new triangular bag tied with a small knot called Cigale.

Frankly, a key reason why Anderson got the work in Dior was his remarkable success in Loewe, the leading Spanish LVMH label, with the puzzle bag, the best -selling bag in Harrods for all accounts. It is expected to produce a successful leather bag in Dior, something that the brand has not really delivered since it launched the Lady D and the chair to ride about two decades ago.

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In his view prior to the show for Italian and Irish editors, Anderson was a screaming. When asked what was his biggest challenge in entering Dior, he replied: “I am not a haute couture designer.”

Remaining patience to develop your vision before the boards with the 75 looks, Anderson added: “There is this about dressing, because of the guy who venerates fashion. Then, I think the next while we will play with this tension. And try to make Dior can go, because it cannot happen tomorrow or today. It will not happen today. And it will take time for the type of time to be the new type of tension of tension.

This tension also exists in the most famous documentary of Curtis “hypernormalization.” An skilled assembly of news images of recent history and conspiracy theories is certainly stimulating. He suggests that nothing changes politically, as a clique of politicians, rich corporate and technological corporate owners that now control the world through antidepressant drugs and social networks, building a “false world” to control global citizens.

A somewhat strange choice for a fashion film, since it is an industry that must have to do with change. And since Anderson's pattern is the richest man in Europe.

In total, after a week in Milan, where four debutante designers in the main houses played mainly quite safe, it was impressive to witness how many risks Anderson was prepared in Dior. He does not miss gills. Was it a great success? Maybe not, but it is a fascinating job in progress.