Maria Grazia Chiuri undermined the long history of Rome in her latest collection of cruises for Dior, since the skies opened on Tuesday night just before what will prove to be her last show for the house.
Titled “Theatrum Mundi”, or the “Great Theater of the World”, the collection reproduces with the idea of the continuous rediscovery of Rome, by artists, writers and archaeologists and their endless influence on fashion.
Rarely in the history of fashion, a show has been organized in a more magnificent environment, the garden of the Albani Torlonia villa, a beautiful latest Renaissance stone palace that has the largest private collection in the world of ancient Greek and Roman statuette.
The guests scrupulously followed the designer's opinion that the ladies dress in white, gentlemen in black. The result was the most elegant audience we have seen in a show in Eons. A threatening sky when the guests arrived before the show to enjoy the mima, all blank, emote of the top of three meters high bushes, or dance as harpies and spirits on high platforms.
The track was a path of pebbles, where the cast extended, essentially everything in floors, before the lodge of the town full of statues of Empress, goddess and fallen warriors.
Although the celebrated environment led the glories of ancient Rome, clothing was contemporary, with a dozen gabardines, cut micro-cortos and doubles chest or long and printed. It is not a short view of sight, almost all the steps a column, made in organza acres, bright metal silks and intricate cords.
Like the story of Rome that inspired her, Maria Grazia mixed times in many looks: a pea coat became a frack; A gown ended like a ball dress. Before going out to overload in the end with silk dresses that imitated gladiator armor.
Where Shakespeare interpreted the metaphysical concept of Theatrum Mundi, with his famous phrase: “Everyone is a scenario, and all men and women simply players.” Chiuri saw it as a set of the historical tectonic plates of Rome, the eternal city where each generation rediscovers the art treasures of a thousand years and the architectural oddities.
Apparent in the brilliant selection of impressions, in the last association with another hyper talented Roman artist Pietro Ruffo. The starting point of the collection was Domus Aurea, the great giant palatial complex of 80 acres that Emperor Nero began to build in the year 64. A symbol of Nero's decline, was stripped of his marble, jewelry and ivory after his death before falling into the discount just to be discovered about 1,500 years later. When it is beautiful but the fresh fading should inspire a whole generation of Renaissance artists such as Raphael and Michelangelo. Chiuri using the domus aurea impressions of the Palace in elegant layers, pants and silk tops. A truly talented illustrator, the reinvented illustrations of Ruffo had a great attraction.
In addition to contemporary genius, Chiuri had his favorite cinematographic collaborator, the Italian filmmaker Matteo Garrone project his short film Les Fantômes du Cinema as an accompaniment of live broadcast for the show. Fortunately, Dior had provided all transparent umbrellas, so that the audience could still enjoy the show.
The rain that vanishes in the end, before a variety of front -row actresses and aristocrats that included Natalie Portman, Rosamund Pike, Ashley Park, Deva Cassel, Alexandra Daddario, Camille Cottin, Beatrice Borromeo, Valeria Golino, Eiza Gonzalez and Victoria de Marichalar.
A total of 80 looks, which included an injection of haute couture ideas, the collection was presented six weeks after Bernard Arnault, the president and CEO of LVMH, who controls Dior, announced that Northern Irish Jonathan Anderson would happen to English Kim Jones in Dior Men, and organized his first collection in Paris. Leading, all in fashion, to assume that Anderson will soon assume the position of Chiuri as creative director for women.
When asked directly about his reign in Dior coming to an end, Chiuri replied: “I have absolutely no comments to do about it. However, I can tell you that I am very good.”
She signed on the influence of Rome in her designs while working for Paris House, Maria Grazia, born in Roman, added: “You know something, I never left Rome. The thing is that when you go and live and work abroad, you learn more about where you come. That is what happened to me.”
The Paris Haute haute couture season will take place in the second week of July, ten days after the Paris male clothing season. That is when Anderson will make his debut in Dior with a show at 2.30 pm on Friday, June 27. According to the sources, Dior plans not to organize any haute couture show this summer. The Federation of the Haute Couture et de la Mode, which controls all the French catwalk seasons, rejected any comments. But it is understood that when the calendar of provisional haute couture shows on Monday, Dior will not contain. Making this cruise performance in Rome, Chiuri's last arch.
Early in the day, Chiuri released his next great project, Il Theater Della Cometa, a beautifully restored theater that acquired five years ago, located in front of Capitoline Hill, the Political Nervous Center of Ancient Rome.
The editors were also transported around 'Maria Grazia's Roma', starting with Tirelli Costumi, a legendary Roman tailor whose unique creations have caught in a dozen Oscar for the best costume design. Where one discovered the bustling dresses made by Tirelli and used by Winona Ryder and Michelle Pfeiffer in “The Age of Innocence” by Martin Scorsese, for which Gabriella Pescucci won the 1993 costume design oscar. The classic 1963 period of Luchino Visconti “The Leopard”. Tirelli's looks were used by mimes and dancers in Dior's pre-show.
The day began with the inaugural silent work within the Maria Grazia theater itself, a work of performance arts starring a cast dressed in white beauties and ball dresses; Orpheus with its lute; punctual hair clowns; Azobos of society; Disolluts aristocratic dandies; Roman companies: all designed by Chiuri. A tribute to the famous balls dreamed by the host of the Society and owner of Art Galleries in Rome and New York, Mimi Pecci Blunt, who opened the Teatro della Cometa in 1958.
“A small theater inspired by the old theaters of the court, that is, an intimate, precious and refined theater in its details,” was how Pecci Blunt described his theater. Creating a sign for the next act in the creative life of Maria Grazia Chiuri.
After all, Maria Grazia's nine -year mandate in Dior helped boost a notable period of dynamic growth for the French brand. His innovative fabric bags were the most popular bags on the planet; His feminist approach won a new generation of customers.
In the end, the crowd rose in a standing ovation, while Chiuri made a journey extended by the adorned garden, clearly moved and melancholic, but proud challenging.
F. Scott Fitzgerald used to say that there was no second act in American public life, but never lived in Rome or met Maria Grazia. She is already in her next work.
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