Craig Green's first physical show in two years was an industrial and family affair.
Designers Michèle Lamy, Sarah Burton, Simone Rocha and Martine Rose, as well as five members of Green's family, were among the 120 guests who attended the designer's spring 2025 show held in his top-floor studio overlooking the Greenwich Peninsula and Canary Wharf in east London. .
“It scared me a lot to have people in a space where I spend seven days a week. “I was trying to finish the collection while people were painting the runway,” Green said.
The designer has always created a sense of intimacy for his compelling and emotional shows, but this season he took things to a different level with a loving tribute to his father, who recently passed away.
The program highlighted the bonds between father and son and the expectations each has of the other. The result was a mix of masculine and feminine, with nods to rugby, cars and adult clothing in a palette full of pastels, loose shapes and layers.
“I was trying to avoid talking about it because I thought it was sentimental, but it's more about my dad,” said Green, whose soundtrack included his and his father's Spotify playlists mixed by Frédéric Sanchez.
At the same time, Green said he has been thinking about becoming a father. Those thoughts were reflected in the padded, padded, rugby-inspired corsets, which Green said reminded her of a wearable baby carrier.
She upsized and repurposed her signature scarf, which made its runway debut in spring 2017, into a series of loose-fitting shirts and sweaters. The designer said these were supposed to look like baby bibs.
Protection, another green theme, came in the form of oversized, Frankenstein-like motorcycle jackets, which were assembled from several pieces of leather clothing, supplied by Ecco, at the start of the show. Instead, the closing looks were made with soft strips of rolled jersey cut from old T-shirts and painted with floral motifs. Green called them “melting tea towels.”
Overall, the collection felt familiar and refreshing at the same time. The designer updated basic pieces like boxy work jackets, trench coats, quilted shirts, wide-leg pants, parkas and statement ponchos with different fabric and color combinations. The work jacket, for example, this time came in a bright cotton lamé and waxed nylon blend with a zipper instead of buttons, while the patterns on the plaid shirts were distorted.
It also teased collaborations with Eastpak on bags and Fred Perry for a series of polo shirts, which come with Green's signature circular motif under Fred Perry's laurel wreath logo.
