Glenn Martens walked into the Diesel showroom fresh from his first appearance at the Met Gala earlier this month, still buzzing from the experience and having none other than pop icon Kylie Minogue as a date. For the occasion, Diesel's creative director also custom-dressed the young and attractive couple Dove Cameron and Damiano David, the frontman of Måneskin, for a presentation that racked up many clicks on social media and loudly reiterated the democratic message of the brand: Even when Diesel hits the red carpet, he speaks to different generations.
Even more than its collections, the inclusive attitude that Martens has been reaffirming in the brand through talent casting, runway formats and engaging campaigns is proving key to its approach. In her hands, pre-collections are essential to further amplify this purpose, encompassing a broader Diesel community with simpler pieces.
Therefore, for resort 2025, Martens continued the tradition of filtering the concepts it previously presented strikingly on the runway. The layers of personalities and fabrics shown in February were presented here in a simpler way, but still injected with the same penchant for trompe l'oeil effects, lining and denim manipulation.
“Everything you see is not what it seems,” Martens said during the tour. “Is it tailoring? Is it underwear? Is it distressed or jacquard? “It’s about the illusion of stereotypes.”
Sleek, elongated tailoring opened the line, with wool garments that played with matte and shiny finishes as they were covered with screen on the front, and Martens' version of three-piece suits in denim printed with pinstripe motifs.
In its mission to revisit classic design archetypes in Diesel's preferred fabric, Martens reworked relaxed coats and streetwear staples, such as hoodies and baggy pants in boucle denim, that easily highlighted and enriched the collection's textures. .
As the lineup progressed, the looks became sexier, with fanny packs turned into zip-up tops and miniskirts, and flashier with neon furry embellishments on knit fabrics; eye-catching prints ranging from dazzling spotlights and tattoos to floral motifs, and form-fitting knitwear with trims in contrasting colors that nod to sportswear or the world of lingerie. The latter was reinforced with the addition of denim-look underwear and leggings, which will offer young people the first point of contact with the brand.
