Chiara Boni's show reached its peak in the opening look, when Anna Cleveland appeared on the black runway in a plaid suit, long leather gloves, pheasant feathers pinned to her sculptural hat, riding crop in hand, and plenty of confidence. .
His daring entrance set the mood for the show, which was set to an original soundtrack composed by Thomas Costantin that included excerpts from the autobiography that Boni published at the end of last year. In one passage, the designer details her days at Swinging London and how she arrived in the country “dressed like a good girl from a good Italian family and in the space of a week I completely lost my mind.”
More than that specific period, however, the collection celebrated Britain as a whole, giving a special nod to Savile Row while peppering masculine sartorial codes like Prince of Wales patterns on fitted suits with flared trousers and his signature evening wear.
Some versions featured wide, puffed shoulders that could give Emma Stone's “Poor Things” character Bella Baxter a run for their money, while others were twisted into more subtle ruffles that injected dynamism into the dresses by distorting patterns.
In addition to the signature knit dresses, there were other options in regal red velvet or covered in sparkling, iridescent sequins. Boni threw in some leather-look dresses and fetish touches via gloves and whips as a reminder that she may have become an expert in special occasion dressing, but her risqué days are not forgotten.
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