Coco Chanel's love to nature was the Leitmotif of the Haute Couture Collection of this season of the house, presented with balance and precision within the Great Palais renewed in a cloudy in the morning on Tuesday.
The collection marked the last of the seven created by the internal study of the brand, and was a very admirable ending. The third official successor of Coco, Matthieu Blazy, will present its debut collection for Chanel at the end of September during the next season of the Paris Ready-To-Wear catwalk.
Sportly, Matthieu took a seat in the front row in the show, in a set that imitated the famous Coconut of Art Deco created in Rue Cambon, still the heart of the most famous fashion label in France.
Therefore, before huge mirrors with beige panels and curtains, carpet track and suede seats, the models marched in classic Chanel with a girl.
Playing in the reference of the Biography of Coco Louise de Vilmorin to it as a “pastor paste”, the collection contained Tweed acres, a fabric that grew to love his visits to the giant farm of northern Scotland of his former lover, the Duke of Westminster. In a program that also remembered the love of Mademoiselle Chanel for wheat, a plant that associated with good fortune. A gold -painted gold paint was placed in each host's seat.
Playing with that idea, the light and almost creamy tweeds seemed to separate in the stripes, or even peels, in some ingenious work of the embroidery Maison Lesage.
Created in a narrow beige palette, Ecru, black and white, the clothes were supremely at home in a set that looked like a Chanel space capsule.
The cast marched in a fast rhythm figure during the show, wearing many looks anchored by fresh modernist knubby boots cut in the knee or on the top of the thigh.
For the study of the study, many risks with the tailoring ran, cutting new three -piece costumes in Wool Bouclé. Made of the short classic Chanel jackets and mini skirts with belt on Culottes.
For the night, The Look was a jazzed art deco style, with wrapping satin skirts that reached well below the knee, all combined with beautiful singlets and boleros adorned with glass flowers.
Part of the night was a bit complicated, even overloaded with stripes and necklaces of Catherine de Medici, but it was not admirable to see some risks. And one had to love several looks with a sexier emeage in black and white, either the dresses of a satin header or blouses by the lace fasteners.
Before the Marianne, the traditional bride that ends all the haute couture shows, are stretched in a wonderful mixture of white lace, covered with brilliant jade accounts.
The cast met in the end on a staircase topped by a recreation of the white stucco arch before Coco liked to be photographed. A last tribute to the founder, who imagines Coco would have loved.
Like many luxury labels, Chanel suffered a recession in Las Sales last year, although in a measured title, as annual income fell 4% to $ 18.7 billion. That meant that Chanel maintained his high -end global leadership and also obtained more than $ 5 billion in adjusted Ebitda. It is not bad going for a complicated year.
In total, given the market conditions, this internal study team, which never revealed, was a fairly impressive career. Even accepting that the brand lost impulse and clearly needed a new leader.
Then, surround in September and Matthieu Blazy's debut in Chanel. Paris can't wait.
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