Carlo Capasa, convinced that difficult times foster strong creative impulses, announces the start of Milan Fashion Week

For the opening of Milan Women's Fashion Week, FashionNetwork.com met Carlo Capasa, president of the Chamber of Italian Fashion (CNMI), who is keen to create opportunities for lesser-known names and emerging talents during this key fashion event.

FashionNetwork.com: The data shows that the fashion market is slowing down. How do you think we should deal with this situation?

Carlos CapasaI think we should always look to the future with optimism. I said some time ago that resilience would be the key this year. I see it like this: we are in the middle of a crisis, there is no denying that, but the market has simply slowed down for 12 to 18 months and is now ready to recover again.

FNW: Can we say that the worst is behind us?

DC:I am optimistic, the signals we are receiving point to the beginning of a recovery in the second half of 2024. In 2021 and 2022, the market grew by 20%, and in fact it grew by 5% in 2023. There are two wars going on, the Russian market is stagnant, the Chinese real estate market is collapsing and there is the usual consumer uncertainty that always coincides with the US crisis. [presidential] Elections: a 3.5% drop shouldn't worry us too much. And in the meantime, clothing and accessories [sectors] The most affected are undoubtedly the eyewear, cosmetics and jewellery sectors.

FNW: Would you say then that the problem should not be considered so serious or that it is not so serious for everyone?

DC: Fashion remains Italy's second largest industrial sector, worth €90 billion. Those affected are primarily those players serving the Italian and European markets. And we are seeing that, fortunately, there are brands that can grow thanks to other markets that are thriving and well-thought-out design decisions.

FNW: It seems that designers are a bit reluctant to be bold. Do you get that feeling too?

DC: Certainly, new ideas are emerging from the younger generations now, which is why the additional day we as CNMI have added to the [fashion week] The calendar is very important, because it will give everyone an extra breath and give visibility to the showrooms, the parades or the presentations of young designers and emerging brands. And also to the artisans. Let's not forget that we are talking about 40,000 [artisanal] Businesses are a crucial supply chain that must be protected and promoted. I also believe that it is during difficult times that the most powerful creative impulses are generated, so I hope that creativity, and also craftsmanship, will reap the rewards and be the winners this season.

FNW: Will the calendar change also apply to February Fashion Week? [in Milan]?

DC: Yes, for the next season too we have tried to put together a calendar that meets everyone's operational requirements, giving visibility to both well-known and lesser-known names, and also to the sector's trade fairs, which are always essential.