Candiani Denim partners with Madh to launch first regenerative cotton jeans

Madh, a Swedish denim brand with sustainability in its DNA, has partnered with Italian producer Candiani Denim to launch the first collection of jeans made from non-GMO regenerative cotton of European origin, derived from the Blue Seed cotton variety, from which Candiani owns the exclusive rights. Blue Seed is a non-GMO hybrid cotton variety that has been developed by Candiani, based in Robecchetto con Induno, near Milan, Italy, with Gowan Seed Company, an international agricultural group.

The Blue Seed cotton used by Madh is grown by Algosur in Andalusia, Spain, using regenerative agriculture techniques. Having exclusive access to Blue Seed cotton allows Candiani to track its production from the initial cultivation stage and be fully transparent throughout its entire supply chain.

“Hybrid seeds, such as Blue Seed cotton, generate a phenomenon known as hybrid vigor or heterosis, which means that the biological traits of a hybrid offspring are improved as a result of the mixing of genetic contributions from their parents. The new hybrid plant has stronger biological traits than the individual plants from which it originates, producing a fiber with superior physical characteristics,” said Simon Giuliani, head of marketing at Candiani Denim. “Blue Seed cotton fibers are longer and stronger than normal. The fabric derived from this crop is a higher quality product, 30% more resistant than generic cotton and more durable. “This is a key feature in terms of sustainability and the exact antithesis of a fast fashion approach,” he added.

Blueseed cotton is a hardier crop than generic cotton. It requires less water and chemicals to grow, and is an excellent rotational crop, ideal for regenerative agriculture. In fact, it was designed specifically for arid soil conditions.

“Technology and innovation are at the center of this collaboration,” Giuliani said. “In the last four years, the world has changed radically many times and, in this context, it is practically impossible to plan for the future or make predictions. Creating a new jeans brand today is especially difficult. I believe a novel manufacturing approach is needed, based on principles that we must now consider essential: innovation, sustainability and durability. The collection we have created with Madh, with products priced between €190 and €220, is based on circularity and the philosophy of less is more. Thanks to an intense R&D effort, we have found a way to produce jeans using the highest quality cotton fibers,” Giuliani added.

He went on to say that “in most cases, the durability of a fabric is directly proportional to the length and strength of the cotton fiber. Candiani usually works with long and extra-long staple fibers. To get even better performance, we've done something a little crazy: we've developed our own cotton seeds. Furthermore, as Blue Seed cotton is more resistant, we can use it together with weaker fibers, compensating for its lower thickness. This means that instead of having jeans made with 5% recycled fibers, we can go up to 30%.”

“Madh is a global collective working to spearhead innovation, pushing the boundaries of the denim industry towards a sustainable culture through technology, transparency and creativity. We configure [Madh] In 2023, we are still very young, but we have a very experienced team behind us,” said Martin Gustafsson, creative director of Madh. Gustafsson has worked for more than seven years at Swedish brand Acne Studios and then for nine years as product and design director at Norwegian fashion company Varner, where he launched the Karve and Never Denim brands. He has co-founded Madh with designer Nhu Duong, also previously at Acne Studios. “We believe that we are a unique entity in the international fashion scene, because we are challenging the traditional way of building a brand and presenting collections. If you look at our online collections, you will see that 80% of our products are made with this innovative fabric. This project will drive a long-term partnership and Candiani Denim fabrics will become an integral element of our DNA,” said Gustafsson.

The founders of Madh think that “jeans have no seasons and must be durable. We do not believe it is necessary to introduce new skinny or flared models each season, and we only produce indigo and black jeans, with two different dye tones.” Gustafsson added that “our collaborations with artists and designers have led to several capsule collections, but our business model will always be fundamentally based on sustainability.”

The collection created by Madh in collaboration with Candiani Denim will be available in Madh's e-store, in the Candiani Denim store in Piazza Mentana 3, Milan (where Candiani Custom, the first urban microfactory manufacturing personalized jeans, is also located) and in retailers select international stores: a store in Malmö, another in Berlin and several multi-brand retailers in Japan.

“In late spring, Madh jeans will be available on Hypebeast's HBX.com e-store, and most likely at the Hong Kong HBX store as well. We also want to expand in the DACH region and are always looking for suitable distribution partners,” said Gustafsson.

Candiani Denim is headquartered near Milan and also operates an R&D center in Los Angeles. The company holds the patent for Coreva, the first and only biodegradable and compostable stretch denim on the market. In fiscal year 2022, Candiani recorded revenue of €105 million, €15 million more than in 2021. The Milanese company experienced a slowdown in fiscal year 2023, an extremely difficult year for the entire fashion sector, but Giuliani is confident that, in 2024, Candiani will again reach, at a minimum, the 2021 income level of more than €90 million. “In the first three months of 2024 we recorded notable growth compared to the same period in 2023. We are consolidating our position again and remain confident in the future,” he concluded.