Chinese designer Calvin Luo built his spring 2024 collection around the idea of reinterpreting the soft marble creations of Italian sculptor Rafaelle Monti with structured and unexpected materials, such as wool, denim and tweed.
The result was a stylish, versatile day-to-night wardrobe featuring crew-neck structured wool blazers, one-shoulder vests, and asymmetrical layered shirts, all with pleated details that pay homage to Monti’s ethereal creation,” La Donna Velata”, the veiled woman. .
Other standout products included draped pants in theatrical silhouettes with metal loops, chunky cable-knit sweaters, elevated cargoes, and ruched dresses in sculptural optical illusion prints.
“There is a soft, romantic quality to his [Monti’s] Marble sculptures and pleated details are inspired by the shrouded face portrayed in the sculpture. I also employed draping techniques in the design process. Over the past few seasons, I’ve really enjoyed the juxtaposition of two conflicting elements. So I played with pleating and draping not only with soft materials, but also with thicker and unexpected textiles,” Luo said.
The designer explained that he decided not to show in Paris this season because he is saving for a big 10th anniversary celebration next year in China, where he operates four stores in addition to more than 70 points of sale.
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