Chanel will host three major events in China in just five months.On July 12, the exhibition “Fashion Manifesto | Gabrielle Chanel” opened at the Power Station of Art (PSA) in Shanghai, while the debut of its Metiers d'Art 2024/2025 collection in Hangzhou is scheduled for December and its cruise 2024/2025 show will take place in Hong Kong in November. The frequency and intensity of Chanel's activities in the country further underline its focus and ambition for the Chinese market.
On the occasion of the opening of the exhibition, FashionNetwork.cn spoke to Mr. Bruno Pavlovsky, President of Fashion at Chanel, about Chanel's heritage and how the legendary luxury fashion house has gone through a century of change.
The exhibition “Fashion Manifesto | Gabrielle Chanel” is a rare encounter that transcends time and
space. With approximately 270 carefully selected pieces, the exhibition is divided into two chapters showcasing Mademoiselle Chanel's creations from the 1910s to the 1930s, and her works after re-entering the fashion world from 1954 to 1971. As an extension, each theme of the The exhibition is completed with portraits of Gabrielle Chanel herself from different periods. At every step, the visitor can find explanatory material that is gradually expanded. unravel Chanel's personal fashion manifesto.
The PSA is itself an imposing architectural wonder. Curators Miren Arzalluz and Véronique Belloir
meticulously organized the exhibits, making the most of the venue's features, while the
The exhibition was designed by the architectural firm Diller Scofidio + Renfro. When visitors enter
In the exhibition space, they are immediately immersed in an atmosphere of ambiguity and mystery.
As they climb the stairs, they are greeted by a giant image of Gabrielle Chanel herself, dressed in a
Classic black and white suit, standing on the famous mirrored staircase at 31 Rue Cambon.
The scene, which transcends a century, sets the stage for the cultural journey of the “Fashion Manifesto |
“Gabrielle Chanel.”
A strategy based on brand culture
“Chanel never changed her style and that was precisely her strength.” — This comment
Since the April 1921 French edition of Vogue it has lasted for 103 years.
Over the past century, Chanel has certainly not remained static. However, whether you visit the
Fashion Manifesto Exhibition in Shanghai or visit any Chanel boutique, this century-old brand
feels remarkably familiar from head to toe, whether it's the products, the look, the logo or
General atmosphere.
While most brands look for traffic to boost their business, Chanel has built its own cultural ecosystem.
It is not necessary to define a target customer profile. Despite the diverse cultural contexts around the world,
Many countries around the world, the legendary history and cultural ecosystem of Mademoiselle Chanel
transcend national borders and language barriers.
Mademoiselle Chanel's revolutionary ideas about feminine beauty created a series of iconic classics
products. In this exhibition, the products themselves embody their spirit at various stages of their life,
collectively representing the extension and growth of the Chanel brand spirit over different periods.
The spirit of Mademoiselle Chanel is arguably the brand's greatest asset. For over a century, the brand has
The brand’s strategy has ensured that its marketing practices remain very consistent. Regardless of who makes the decisions, the core ethos of the brand has remained, unswayed by trends or criticism.
Bruno Pavlovsky shared with us: “I think that in today's world it is very important to discuss the
same theme from different angles, to tell the same story in different ways. This is also creativity.
which Chanel has practiced consistently for a long time. Each city will have its own unique
Version: One is seen in Shanghai and one in London, which brings new vitality and perspectives.
“to creativity.”
The exhibition “Fashion Manifesto | Gabrielle Chanel” collaborates with local museums in different
cities, allowing each city to express its unique location.
“Everything Chanel does for beauty is for everyone. Each client will have their own
brand interpretation. Everyone chooses what they want, depending on their context and culture.
“We don't want to target any specific group; everything we do is for everyone,” Pavlovsky said.
What are brand assets? They are not what the brand thinks should be associated with it, but what it believes should be associated with it.
Consumers naturally identify with it. Chanel, with its century-old brand culture, has accumulated vast brand assets.
While some brands strive to tap into trends, Chanel relies on tradition. Bruno Pavlovsky stresses the unwavering importance of brand culture: “We strictly adhere to the coherence of the brand narrative.”
In our culture, we are still very focused on women's fashion. Chanel will not venture into
furniture, men's clothing, children's clothing or other product categories. We remain focused. I think that, in
In today’s world, staying focused is a brand’s most important commitment.”
Mademoiselle Chanel was a natural business prodigy, self-taught and innately a product innovator.
categories. In an era of limited women's fashion styles, she pioneered a blue ocean strategy by
Offering simplicity in contrast to luxury, ease rather than restriction, and black and white.
Instead of vibrant colours, with her rebellious creativity, she inaugurated a new era in women's fashion.
fashion.
A particularly revealing statement on a wall in the exhibition reads: “Although Mademoiselle
Chanel was not the first or the only designer to use black, her contribution lies in transforming this
color into a symbol of modernity, applied to their dresses, suits and coats. While fashion designers
The Roaring Twenties were all about bright hues and the little black dress became a style staple for Chanel.
“Continually innovated and interpreted.”
Without a doubt, Mademoiselle Chanel was a pioneering fashion innovator who transcended
historical cycles. As one of the few luxury fashion houses to have survived since World War II,
Chanel's enduring vitality also owes much to its solid organizational strength.
“Create, create, create!” Pavlovsky repeated over and over again. emphasizes Chanel's core values, closely followed by “quality” and “experience.” Chanel is constantly looking for the best suppliers of fabrics and crafts to deliver
exceptional product value for its customers. For example, Chanel's subsidiary, Perfection, manages
Specialized workshops covering various crafts such as feathers and floral decorations,
embroidery, gold and silver jewelry, millinery, footwear, gloves, cashmere, pleats and much more.
Workshops such as Massaro for footwear, Causse for gloves, Barrie Knitwear for cashmere and Guillet
For floral decorations, together with many skilled craftsmen, they constitute a vital part of the Chanel brand.
Culture: maximum quality.
Since 2005, exhibitions such as 'Chanel', 'Culture Chanel' and 'Inside Chanel' have toured the world. covering cities such as New York, Beijing, London, Seoul, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Tokyo. The exhibitions allow consumers to understand the design concepts and stories behind Chanel collections. Different product lines, showcasing Mademoiselle Chanel's innovative works with various artists.
Around 2020, in the midst of the pandemic, the exhibition “Gabrielle Chanel | Fashion Manifesto” was inaugurated
Paris and subsequently collaborated annually with different museums and art galleries in cities such as
Melbourne at the National Gallery of Victoria, Tokyo at the Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum and
London at the Victoria and Albert Museum. The current exhibition at the Shanghai Art Museum
Contemporary Art marks its fifth city in this collaborative series.
Chanel's strategic focus on the brand's heritage transcends nations, demographics and cultures,
Reject short-term consumption driven by passing trends. This approach contrasts sharply
to current marketing standards, providing important information for anyone in the industry. In other words, strategy dictates resource allocation: where today's companies should invest their resources. resources (human, financial and material), clearly emphasizing core competencies rather than Getting stuck in an endless cycle of pursuing short-term growth at the expense of long-term branding. accumulation of value.
According to the internal financial report published in May this year for 2023, Chanel's global growth
Revenue reached $19.7 billion, up 16%. from 2022, with an operating profit of $6.407 billion, an increase of 10.9% compared to the previous year. Sales in the Asia-Pacific region amounted to $10.178 billion, accounting for more than half of the income and constitutes an important pillar that should not be overlooked.
Why Chanel can maintain double-digit growth even in times of economic crisis?
It owes much to focused management strategies, perhaps the secret of ultimate luxury.
Today's world is witnessing increased competition and economic slowdown, an inevitable part of the business cycle. In the midst of this In transition, countless traditional companies gradually disappear while numerous new companies emerge. Chanel, After successfully navigating several economic cycles, find this routine.
Bruno Pavlovsky says: “Everything we do now is not for the present, but for the future. Therefore,
Observe the growth cycles of our operations. Currently, we have entered a phase of greater uncertainty,
However, we continue to grow. I emphasize this point because it underlines our ability to adapt to economic conditions. Therefore, regardless of the economic circumstances, Chanel's strength lies in maintaining its leadership position.”
Business growth is a natural result of brand culture management, providing insights for the Chinese.
Fashion brands: it is not just a business but a brand management, a strategic choice.
However, don't try to be someone else. Bruno Pavlovsky reminds us to be true to our values.
and share them with customers as much as possible. Chanel has always defended its unique creativity,
Experience and maximum quality from the beginning.
“Because Chanel is Chanel.”
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