It's typical for designers to list a variety of points of inspiration—past decades, works of art, periods in history, or some esoteric subject—waxing poetic about how it can be seen in their garments. There are a few who, instead, look inward, exposing their underbelly and vulnerabilities to tell their sartorial story. Brandon Maxwell is one of those talents.
In September, their show was quite intimate and took place in a compact all-white space. Entering their fall show, the space was once again all white but spacious, airy and bright with rays of sunlight shining on a lush white carpet; It was clear, change is in the air. “I look at this show and last season, they're like two endings to a period of my life,” Maxwell said in a preview in his studio. He went on to say that he had taken a short trip to the southwest that was “very meaningful,” and although he is not someone who designs thematically, he called it a “shocking” experience being in the “immensity” of nature that gave him time to think about life, casting it in a renewed light.
When the lights came on, “Wait for Now,” a moving song by The Cinematic Orchestra, played, and the first look emerged: a sleeveless white dress with a halter neck and a low, hip-baring neckline, with light fabric bands. floating as the model walked, a red pump peeking out: a quick moment from “The Wizard of Oz,” a movie Maxwell enjoyed as a child. It felt like an effervescent piece of connective tissue for his latest collection and a way to make room for what was to come.
The subtle duality between soft and hard could be seen in the outerwear: a waxed coated jacket with a hint of workwear over a silky soft leaf-print dress, based on images she took of the western mountains. Knits were luxurious: They came in the form of blazers, while a gray or black dress with a twisted pleat over the bust and a wraparound scarf looked buttery. In fact, long knit scarves were folded into several styles, creating a “leave it all” touch on wardrobe staples, a pair of mid-wash jeans, and the perfect update to a white shirt.
A pyrite crystal on his desk intended to “heal and protect the body” was reproduced in silver and gold as crude hoops or pins to hold the lids on. There were so many thoughtful personal touches, like an update to their best-selling belt with hardware with a touch of Texas charm. She topped it all off with large triangle-shaped bags and masculine-style coats.
“While sitting in nature, I remembered that it has withstood many things: drought, hardship, rain and fire, and that it continues to grow and be beautiful,” he said of his transformative journeys. The same can be said of her contemplative work: she continues to flourish anew.
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