Balmain celebrates the kings of African elegance with surprise guest Naomi Campbell

Balmain has successfully returned to the men's catwalks. The French luxury house, which had not shown its men's collection for several years, presented a dazzling and explosive show on Saturday night at the Grande Halle de la Villette. The collection was inspired by African kings, with vibrant, gold and extravagant colors, all closed by the iconic 90s supermodel, Naomi Campbell, dressed in elegant black pants, a low-cut top and a camel coat.

In this exuberant collection for Fall/Winter 2024-25, creative director Olivier Rousteing paid heartfelt tribute to African culture. He particularly celebrated the elegance of Africans, conveyed in particular through the SAPE (Society of Taste Creators and Elegant People) movement, popularized in the Congo during the 1960s. It was also a way of reconnecting with his roots. The designer, born in unknown circumstances and adopted by a family from Bordeaux, discovered his Ethiopian and Somali heritage a few years ago.

Models gracefully crossed the space wearing high-heeled ankle boots or white sneakers, delicate gold thread adorning their faces like tribal jewelry and sparkling bracelets encircling their arms. Adorned with black leather gloves and a bouquet of flowers in hand, they exuded sophistication in outfits adorned with delicious red kisses, parading in elegant suits, coats and shiny blouses.

Great attention was paid to visual aesthetics. For example, wide black trousers with pleats were combined with knitted fabrics with an optical effect reminiscent of Vasarely. These graphic effects continued through a series of black pieces with white polka dots of varying sizes. Some garments took on a surreal touch, with giant mouths or eyes popping out here and there. Finally, other silhouettes reproduced hyperchromatic photographs by Ghanaian visual artist Prince Gyasi through prints or fabric applications.

Olivier Rousteing also collaborated with British-Cameroonian artist Ibby Njoya on the color palette. Strong and cheerful tones came to the closet. A shirt opted for yellow or vibrant red, a coat or pants opted for purple tones, while other trouser models were dyed royal blue or light green. Later, the giant sunrise-inspired iris of an eye adorned T-shirts, suits, coats and accessories in dazzling hues.

The collection did not leave out more relaxed outfits with jeans, jackets and leather garments. For the evening, Olivier Rousteing imagined gold with large cascading bracelets and necklaces, as well as garments that appeared bathed in yellow metal, such as a bustier or a trench coat, along with a variety of gold accessories such as hats, handbags, briefcases, helmets. , and even a turban.

This bold collection infused with haute couture marked Balmain's strong return to men's fashion. Men's fashion already represents 30% of the house's total sales, which has recently opened four boutiques in the United States, its main market. With this show they aim to “return the place that belongs to men in fashion”, according to the marketing director, Txampi Diz.