Going down the curtains in a decade of intense creativity, the designer Demna said goodbye to Balenciaga with a final collection that referred to the Hollywood glamor, intermingling the codes of the famous house.
As noted, Demna will join Gucci, becoming the new creative director in Milan, a bigger label in Keing, the luxury conglomerate that also has Balenciaga.
The show was organized within the Balenciaga Haute Couture Workshop in Avenue George V, where the limousines extended through large crowds to the entrance. Fans drove away when Nicole Kidman, Katy Perry, Salma Hayek, Kyle Maclachlan, Justine Skye and Cardi B, who appeared as a vamuda Vampive with black lace and a huge cruella wig, entered the main door.
Inside, Kim Kardashian's brand ambassador walked through the show with a ivory ivory dress “cat on a hot tin tour”, a “fur skin” of white feathers and a huge necklace. It turned out to be the most emblematic personal diamond pendant of Elizabeth Taylor of the private collection of jeweler Lorraine Schwartz, based in Los Angeles, an ode to Taylor, in Demna's words.
The couturier born in Georgia was put in the work of Cristóbal Balenciaga, mainly with a renewed chest floor set used by the fetish model of the founder Danielle in 1967. A look that evoked the kitchen board of his grandmother of his childhood, insisted Demine.
While his obsession with the Hollywood Golden Age led to a “diva” dress of black sequins inspired by Marilyn Monroe, as well as a “debutante” princess dress created from the world's lighter technical organza in the end.
“This collection is the perfect way for my decade to end in Balenciaga. I have approached as much as possible to be satisfied in this endless search for impossible perfection: the defining spirit of Cristóbal Balenciaga,” Demon said in his program notes.
In particular, he played a lot with the reengineering corsetry designed to be comfortable and not restrictive. And after taking a rare reverence, he revealed that his starting point for the collection was the “La Bourgeoisie” clothing codes. Severe tailoring for women with tulip flaps that shot around the face, or coats with high medication scenarios on neck and nosferate. His Marianne, or the haute couture girlfriend, was a model Eliza in a guipure lace dress without seams in the form of factory techniques, in a surprisingly minimalist statement.
“It is my love story with Paris, where I have lived for 15 years, more time than in my country of origin, Georgia. It is a place that I love and hate,” he confessed, standing at a humor board where the cast had been shot by Paris, from the Eiffel Tower to île Saint-Louis.
In a mixed show, he associated with four family tailors of Naples, developing unstructured Neapolitan shirt jackets. He sent a bodybuilding friend Naples four times to create a giant suit, which later multiplied nine times in several fabrics and used by a cast of male characters, including Demna's couple, a figure of Sylvain, thin and rogin.
“The tailors are used to making costumes for men with great bellies, so it was a great challenge … I wanted to demonstrate that it is not the garment that defines the body, but the body that defines the garment,” Demon insisted on a full backstage.
He added at the time of the city of Tensel when he commissioned Schwartz to create more than 1,000 capes of high jewelry made with white diamonds, natural emeralds, padparadscha sapphires, pink diamonds and canary yellow diamonds to customize the collection. Meanwhile, the briefcases were reinvented as a new “jewelry jewelry” laptop box of thin line.
In an elegant gesture, most of the soundtrack was the reading of the first names of their entire workshop and personnel, ending with Demon, “well Sûr”, a gesture that left many of his team crying.
When asked about his next step in Gucci, he was volatile: “What I learned is that when you arrive at a brand with heritage and codes, you are very lucky and you have abundant codes that you can modernize or make relevant. Or the codes are restrictive, and I must say that I love Balenciaga, but the codes in Balenciaga are not in proportion to the type of business. Hourglass. Integrate many Demon codes into this house. “
“While for my next chapter, I have the luxury of having many different codes in which I have never used.
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