Appiolaza debuts at Moschino with a humorous tribute

This season's big debut in Milan was at Moschino, where the Argentine Adrián Appiolaza presented his first collection: a humorous tribute to the founder Franco.

Appiolaza succeeded American Jeremy Scott, who left after a decade in the role last year, a period that saw some epic Moschino shows, albeit with too much grandiose theatrics in recent seasons.

Appiolaza, a highly experienced designer, focused on his own interpretations of classic elements of Moschino's DNA: trademark smiles, question marks, trompe l'oeil and twisted plays of sartorial codes.

Appiolaza's resulting collection was infinitely easier to wear, and one imagines more retail, than those of its predecessor.

It opened with a splendidly cut trench coat worn by a model carrying a brown paper bag with celery and two baguettes. She was followed by simulated housewives carrying smiling bags containing flowers and artichokes. Adrián cut some very wide pants, although he partially covered them with ruffled flamenco skirts. The house's famous graphic lettering was seen on a crisp column of black mohair with Peace printed from the ankle to the shoulder, where the P became the neckline. His lingerie dresses with trompe l'oeil printed straps were daring as were his sequined question mark dresses. Another clever idea was to use tie fabric to make great pants or the inside/outside of raincoats.

It all seemed like a cast of Moschino characters, obsessive personalities brought back to life, from the kooky housewife to the kooky rock star.

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For the boys, he showed some ingenious silk shirts, with black and white stripes where the black was suspenders. While her urban denim-clad jeans (also seen with ruffled flamenco miniskirts) carried heart-shaped red leather bags, Moschino's iconic symbol.

Appiolaza, whose appointment was not announced until December, had barely six weeks to put together a collection.

“But the very fact that we didn't have much time helped us be decisive and focus on what we wanted. It turned out to be a good recipe,” emphasizes Adrián, who has worked at JW Anderson, Miu Miu and Chloé with an impressive resume.

A key element was the use of several unexpected images taken from the founder's artwork. They had never been made into clothing before. Like silk dresses with black and white hands that shake.

“I thought this could really help create new obsessive personalities among all the characters,” he explained.

Although he is Argentine, Adrián speaks Italian, which allows him to immerse himself more in Italian culture. All the way down to the red, white and green of the nation's flag turned into a final cocktail dress.

Altogether, a self-assured opening collection that suggests Appiolaza could well have a long history at this beloved Milanese house.