Anderson makes fun of the Dior collection that combines literature, sport and glamor of Versailles


By

AFP

Published


June 27, 2025

The next Dior show is the most anticipated of the Fashion Week of the men in Paris, and for days, the new creative director of the brand, Jonathan Anderson, has been launching cryptic clues on social networks, hinting at what his first collection could reveal.

Jonathan Anderson – AFP

Like a Hansel and Gretel digital path, the 40 -year -old designer in northern Ireland has been mocking fashion followers with glimpses of what expects when the curtain rises on Friday.

Even the spectacle's invitation, held in the 17th -century greatness of Les Invalides, has gone viral. He began with the photographs of Andy Warhol of the American socialite Lee Radziwill, Jackie Kennedy's sister, and the artist Jean-Michel Basquiat. Both New Yorkers are “for me the epitome of style,” he said.

While the trail of stalls began in the Big Apple, it seemed to be finishing in the palace of Versailles out of Paris, particularly in the cheesy Hamlet Marie Antonieta had built on the grounds to play to be a peasant.

There were also snapshots of a golden watch in the queen's bed, a Dior ring located in one of the apple trees of the village and a brilliantly ingenious measurement tape in the form of a snail perched on a sheet.

Tied in knots

Anderson also published two quite endearing videos of the French soccer star Kylian Mbappé putting a tie and trying, and failing, knotting a Bickie Bow. “It's not so bad, right?” The Real Madrid star and the Dior ambassador asked, before laughing: “Is that (so bad)?”

Anderson, a lover of literature, also seems to have returned to his homeland to inspire himself, with three new versions of the brand's book.

The first has “Dracula” in Blood red letters in a wink to the writer of Dublin Bram Stoker, while the bag “Les Liaisons Dangeruses” pays tribute to the French novelist Pierre Choderlos de Laclos. The enigmatic invitation to the show, a porcelain plaque adorned with three eggs, has already gone viral on social networks.

The arrival of Anderson to Dior had been marked for months after he turned the Spanish Lowe label, which is also owned by the French luxury giant LVMH.

Only a few weeks after being appointed for Dior Homme chief, he was also appointed creative director of Dior's Women's Collections and his haute couture. The last person to have a loose rein in the brand was its founder, Christian Dior.

Difficult time

With the profits that were once bumpers in the luxury sector, the appointment of Anderson is an attempt to renew the fashion house after nine years under the Italian Maria Grazia Chiuri.

Anderson, son of former Irish rugby captain, Willie Anderson, formed in the London School of Fashion after starting in the workshop of a department store in Dublin.

His first big break was getting a job in the Prada marketing department before launching his own brand, Jw Anderson, in 2008.

“I think it is one of the most talented talents of its generation,” said Alice Feillard, a male buyer in Lafayette galleries, the largest department store group in Europe. “We saw what he achieved in Loewe, a really remarkable and brilliant work work.”

“It is one of the most talented and undoubtedly prolific designers in recent years,” GQ France French fashion editor told AFP. “There is something childish but very intellectual” about his collections, he said: “Very shameless, very bold … and really intriguing.”

Feillard said that elaborating the three dior lines “makes sense. Dior Homme and Dior Femme are almost two different brands. I think that now the real challenge for the brand is to establish a somewhat more coherent identity,” he said.

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