Yoon Ahn's fascination with school uniforms seems here to stay. After having introduced the theme a few seasons ago, she continued riffing in her new collection, this time channeling a preppier vibe and a livelier mood.
The lighthearted take gave a cool attitude to the Ambush class of fall 2024, as Ahn used uniform dressing to bring out different characters rather than display conformity. These ranged from the preppy rich kids to the rebels with a grungy vibe; from the jocks with a passion for soccer to the girly sisterhood all wrapped up in maxi bows and toting heart-shaped bags.
“Everyone lives in their uniform. I wanted to push the idea of what it can mean, also given my background,” said the Tokyo-based designer, who has South Korean roots. “I believe you can bring your flavor into it and I wanted to make it more fun rather than stiff.”
Scissors were her best allies in this mission, as she slashed proportions to turn out pleated miniskirts and cropped V-neck sweaters and shirts with diamond-shaped cutouts. Loose tailoring, oversized blazers and baggy pants added to her relaxed, too-cool-for-school attitude.
Yet the clothing archetypes linked to the theme — like varsity jackets, rugby polos and hoodies covered in letter patches — still made the stronger impact. The retro tracksuits and sport-inspired sets were also the winners of this youthful and easy-to-approach lineup.
For more Milan Fashion Week reviews, click here.
