Alexandre Mattiussi continues to grow as a designer, as he confirmed in a show on Thursday night with his latest collection, a contemporary version of French chic.
Mattiussi earned a two-minute ovation as he followed the latest models in a series of large offices in a Haussmann-era building in the midst of reconstruction. The location was telling, at the beginning of Boulevard St Germain and directly opposite the French parliament, the Assembly, as Mattiussi is very much at the center of current French fashion excellence.
His great skill is understanding what people really want to use while injecting enough of his own polished DNA. Balancing the commercial with the right dose of freshness.
Mattiussi's clothes can look deceptively simple. In a mixed performance, the opening duo, girl and boy, wore a simple crepe shirt and vest; Ankle-length skirt and flared pants. But the proportions and mood were perfect.
For men and women, casual tuxedo shirts with wing collars, cool wool jackets in putty tones, plaid jackets and large-collared denim shirts had great poise. The same fabrics are often used for men and women.
And, just when it seemed a little formulaic, she sent out a couple of gorgeous capes and a sheath of taupe silk that made the model look quite magical, especially seen against the white stucco backdrop.
No wonder Mattiussi received such warm applause when he followed Italian supermodel Vittoria Ceretti, dressed in a sinful red jumpsuit. An eclectic guest list included Emma Roberts, Issa Rae, Joe Locke, Chamber Ambassador Choi Woo Shik, K-pop star Jihyo, Selma Blair and Simone Baldasseroni. Along with local fans Lou Doillon, Catherine Deneuve, Juliette Binoche and Leila Bekhti.
Accessorized with chunky metal bracelets and necklaces, and backed by an enchanting soundtrack, led by Eartha Kitt singing “C'est Magnifique,” this all felt like the coolest of fashion expressions.
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