Add new chapters to new ideas

Circular dresses billowed, swayed and twirled at Loewe's morning show, yards of floral crepe coiled over the thinnest of wire frames. A striking and unexpected image in Jonathan Anderson's latest groundbreaking collection for the Madrid house.

Presented inside an all-white tent inside the Chateau de Vincennes, albeit with an inner circle and cast surrounding the set. An idea arose from Loewe's invitation. It contained a Tudor gold wedding ring, a beveled token of love and not a wedding ring. Finished with initials, as “a token of memory” and a symbol of commitment, including his to Loewe, Anderson explained.

Anderson began playing modern crinoline ideas at the Met Ball, but continued to refine the technique as the dresses became increasingly lightweight. He reflected those shapes with tapered leather capes and elegantly tailored elongated jackets; completed by very cool wide leather pants, gathered at one hip so that the pants billowed. Revisiting ideas seen in the latest Loewe men's collections.

“If something works, let's continue to refine and master it. Add three or more chapters. Why not? For me the suit is a strange achievement as I don't think Loewe have been very good at tailoring for a long time,” he added with typical Northern Irish candour.

His other big idea was the composer's feather blouse, a series of sleeveless tops made of precisely sewn white feathers on which were printed portraits of icons such as Bach, Mozart and Chopin or Van Gogh's sunflowers and lilies. All instant fashionista cult items.

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“I like the idea that Mozart abandoned music, like we do with fashion. That the songwriters were pin-up rock stars,” Anderson explained, speaking to a group of 50 editors. Loewe's new boxing boot-style sneakers were noted to carry the L logo, but with musical lyrics.

Since taking the helm of LVMH-owned Loewe, Anderson has turned the brand into the hottest show in Paris with everyone from movie stars, from Daniel Craig to Joss O'Connor, and designers sitting front row. Sarah Burton joined Peter Mulier, Kris Van Assche and Pharrell Williams.

“Actually, I've never been to many shows, probably only three, and I've never witnessed that,” Burton laughed, pointing to the 1,500 fans outside screaming at K-Pop stars and, even more loudly, Jeff Goldblum .

As a testament to Anderson's importance to LVMH and its CEO, key shareholder and Europe's richest man, Bernard Arnault, both his wife Helene and eldest daughter Delphine performed at this show.

Given the enormous success of JW and the vacancies, or possible new positions, at giant brands such as Chanel or Gucci, Anderson's name is often discussed as one of the best possible candidates for these mega positions.

Making the ring symbol in this show was the subject of much discussion as the crowd left the show.