A stylish and elegant debut from Simon Holloway

Fashion loves nothing more than a debut and the biggest of this season in London was at Dunhill, where Simon Holloway presented his first collection for the house inside the National Portrait Gallery on Friday night. The jury's ruling? A hit.

Polished and very elegant, this was not remotely a revolutionary collection, nor is Holloway a particularly innovative designer. But as an expression of gentlemanly elegance, the collection and the show were impeccable.

To add to the appeal, as guests entered, they passed some rare and wonderful oil paintings, including Sir Joshua Reynolds' portrait of the master essayist Dr Samuel Johnson. Even more impressive was the discovery of John Taylor's portrait of William Shakespeare, the only oil painting of the Immortal Bard painted during his lifetime.

One suspects that Shakespeare would have liked this collection given its noble aesthetic. As did James Bond, given the pale gray three-piece 'From Russia with Love' suits that opened the show. Come to think of it, so would Leonardo DiCaprio, who commissioned a tailor-like look in 'Catch Me If You Can'. Although Holloway coolly combined these outfits with Moroccan-style slippers.

That does not mean that the clothing was archaic, far from it. Holloway broke new ground with some of the best tranquil luxury on offer. From deconstructed second-skin leather blazers and sharkskin wool Balmacaan coats, to a wide-lapel shearling peacoat paired with minimalist hiking boots.

Plus, he showed classics with a twist and pretty divine nappa leather coats, cut with deep pockets, that had all the tony DNA one expects from Dunhill, a 131-year-old brand.

Camel hair double-breasted coats and a series of shirt jackets, which he called Bourdon, after his UK flagship, were excellent.

“Dunhill; its origin and progression from motorsport at the beginning to the high Deco period and the refined language of tailoring of the mid to late 20th century,” Holloway explained of his mission.

Holloway, 52, is an experienced designer who has worked at Ralph Lauren, Chloé and Agnona and now sports a thin matinee-idol mustache reminiscent of David Niven.

Admirably, he commanded a set that looked like the ideal gentlemen's club: linen tables, small lamps, fine martinis and catering by Richard Corrigan, the Michelin-starred chef, before high culture and enormous oil paintings of European nobility.

There is a sweet spot in the world of quiet luxury, a place less tense than Hermès and less predictable than Loro Piana, and with this collection Simon Holloway has found it.

As a brand, Dunhill, one of the few fashion brands that are part of the Richemont luxury empire, had felt dormant for quite a few years. This weekend in London, he suddenly seems awake and relevant.

And indeed, the other Richemont fashion houses seem to suddenly come to life. Pieter Mulier hits the ball out of the park with his dynamic collections for Alaïa in Paris, while Chemena Kamali will present her first collection for Chloé in February. Even the fledgling house AZ Factory is quietly up and running and will present another collaboration with Lutz Huelle, one of the most original voices in Parisian fashion today.

All in all, a great report card for Philippe Fortunato, the former Givenchy and Louis Vuitton executive who became CEO of Richemont's fashion and accessories group in September 2020.