A showcase of style in Paris with Bianca Saunders and Lemaire

Amid spectacular shows focused on high-impact images, Paris Men's Fashion Week continues to present collections that emphasize subtle sophistication and everyday wearability without compromising creativity. This balance was beautifully exemplified on Wednesday by Bianca Saunders, who offered a reinvented take on men's fashion with Caribbean influences, and Lemaire, renowned for her elegant and practical fashion.

Returning to the Paris catwalk after a three-season hiatus, Bianca Saunders presented a delicate and refreshing collection titled 'The Hotel', celebrating Jamaica through the eyes of a visitor.

“This time, I adopted the perspective of a tourist, capturing what immediately captivates them upon arriving on the island: the fishermen, the drivers, the hotel staff and the vibrant colors,” explained Saunders, a British designer of Jamaican descent, drawing inspiration in Photographs from the 1940s by photojournalist Bradley Smith.

Saunders described the 1940s as an era of elegance, a feeling she infused into her collection through feminine drapes and meticulous tailoring. Silk scarves elegantly wrapped around the neck, combining perfectly with blouses. Playful ties adorned with whimsical patterns echoed the shirts' designs, adding a touch of charm. Recently awarded the British Fashion Council's Designer Fashion Fund, Saunders also experimented with thin, wavy stripes that created a subtly psychedelic optical effect on several pieces. He worked with various textiles, including fine crinkled cottons, using idle fabrics from Nona Source.

Her collection masterfully combined local influences with tourist and summer clothing. The models wore knitwear and wool and cotton trousers tucked into vibrant boots, a collaboration with Apiccaps, the Portuguese association of footwear manufacturers and designers, and Saunders partner Valuni. The outfits alternated between simple satin joggers, fitted knits, wide, flowy Bermuda shorts and open-knit blouses reminiscent of fishing nets, accessorized with matching clutches. A standout piece was a long net tunic the color of the sea, continuing the nautical theme.

On the other hand, the hotel bellhop-inspired look featured black pants and a fitted white shirt paired with green shoes. Shorts and tank tops in the colors of the Rastafarian and Jamaican flags, along with tank tops emblazoned with typical Rastafarian expressions such as “Whom God bless, let no man curse,” added a vibrant cultural touch.

Lemaire hosted its show once again at its headquarters on the Place des Vosges, in the heart of the Marais, showcasing a collection of essential, timeless pieces designed to mix and match easily. Suitable for both hot summers and colder climates, the collection featured versatile coats that could be worn over the shoulder like a bag.

The practicality of the collection was enhanced by its unisex nature, with both men and women freely borrowing from each other's wardrobes. The neutral and classic color palette (black, white, beige, navy) facilitated effortless combinations. The garments were made from ultralight Japanese nylon, cotton, durable canvas and silk.

Lemaire's multi-layered looks allowed for creative freedom, combining various pieces and materials to create new silhouettes with each outfit. The collection included suits, denim ensembles, flowy shirts paired with wide, billowy Bermuda shorts, leather jackets layered over anoraks, and cardigans paired with pleated pants. Accessories like keys hanging on chains around the neck added a touch of practicality. The overall aesthetic was one of relaxed comfort, with generous, almost puffy pants, tight at the calves.

Tailoring and outerwear were harmoniously integrated, often in monochromatic looks that avoided unnecessary embellishments. Subtle exceptions included faded prints on bags and shirts, and a silk apron over a basic feminine outfit to add a dynamic element.

In an unexpected twist, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran imagined a particularly sensual and sophisticated woman for next summer, presenting numerous fine knit pieces that fit like a second skin. This included long, flowing dresses and even woolen leg warmers held together with garters, paired with a tight miniskirt in a soft green hue and harnesses made of large pearls.