Sabato De Sarno on Monday night offered his own version of “lo stile inglese,” a term Italians use for English style, in a cruise collection inspired by the country's lush gardens, greenery and fabulous fabrics.
He staged the show at the Tate Modern Tanks, a vast underground concrete exhibition space. She laid a carpet of greenery on the concrete floors, hung jungle vines from the ceiling, and planted “Jurassic Park”-style plants and trees throughout the room.
His team even considered the afterlife of the vegetation. Gucci said he plans to donate around 10,000 plants from the fair to community projects in London, including the nonprofit organization Grow to Know.
Before the show, the Tanks smelled dewy and fresh, like it had just rained, which of course made the Brits in the 700-strong audience feel right at home. Spring has arrived in London, but it's still cold and stormy, with rain expected later this week.
And just like the British climate, which can go through four seasons in a day, this collection was a story of contrasts: hard and soft, slim and loose, oversized and petite.
De Sarno thought of “dichotomies” and said that the Tate Modern was the ideal setting, “with its large Turbine Hall that welcomes and brings together everyone, and with the Tanks, generators of ideas.”
He saw this show as “English with an Italian accent” and he certainly delivered. She sent enough chiffon blouses with bows to dress the entire cast of the Sloane Ranger Handbook.
Unlike traditional Sloanes, the ladies of the De Sarno mansion like to pair their bows with leather or suede jackets and capes, some with an embossed double-G pattern.
One of De Sarno's big inspirations was Sloanes icon Princess Diana and the oversized green American-style varsity jacket she wore when taking her children to school in the 1990s.
The designer took those jackets to oversized proportions and paired them with long, billowing pleated dresses in luscious shades of petal pink, mint, and melon.
He also added a pastel touch to the checked coats and florals to the tailored suits. A baby blue plaid double-breasted style and a pretty pink coat with rounded shoulders stood out, as did little suits and coats with bracelet sleeves covered in daisies.
De Sarno combined them with… what else? – flat shoes. They were no-nonsense, with ballerina styles, signature Gucci pieces, and sexy straps up the front. What a contrast to the dizzying platforms of past seasons, but what appropriate footwear for these flower children.
The bags were just as striking. There were giant Jackie styles, while the ever-chic Blondie emerged from the Gucci archive, looking better than ever with its sleek top handle. Three units of Blondie to keep in stock will be available in a handful of Gucci stores starting Tuesday.
“Everything was really wearable, the coats were strong and everything seemed elevated. It's different to before, but really desirable,” said Bosse Myhr, director of menswear and womenswear at Selfridges, while one of the guests, Daphne Guinness, described it as “light, colorful and dramatic.”
The designer has been working closely with management to boost the house's sales and return it to the profitability it was under his predecessor Alessandro Michele, although even father Kering admits it will take some time. De Sarno has prioritized craftsmanship and handmade work, and all of that came through at this show and in the marketing leading up to the show.
Look at Gucci's Instagram and you'll see wall-to-wall scissors, glue, busy fingers, needles and smiling artisans on a mission to make the brand more exclusive and appeal to a customer who sees luxury in detail, color and texture. instead of lighthouse logos or excessive embellishments.
It's clear that De Sarno is still finding his way with this brand, which is loaded (some would say overloaded) with history, memory and meaning. But the seeds are being planted, the soil is fertile and this gardener is not giving up.
