A fashion show at Tom Ford, Emporio Armani and MM6

On Thursday, the second day of Milan Women's Fashion Week closed with a downpour. As the rain grew heavier by the hour, the fashion shows continued unabated in the luxurious halls of the Lombardy capital, with their corresponding delays. After MM6's techno-futuristic collection and Emporio Armani's chic ready-to-wear, Tom Ford set the evening on fire with a magnetic show.

At the prestigious American luxury brand, the catwalk was instantly transformed into a red carpet extravaganza with the arrival of a host of Hollywood stars, including Sharon Stone and Uma Thurman, interspersed with supermodels Amber Valletta and Adut Akech Bior. Shrouded in darkness, the show venue, with its sprawling runway and rows of bleachers on either side covered with luminous carpets and marble, exuded the atmosphere of an exclusive New York nightclub.

Peter Hawkings, who succeeded Tom Ford in July 2023, delivered a vibrant and energetic second show, catapulting audiences back to the extravagant 80s and 90s, reimagined through a contemporary lens tinged with a touch of seductive charm. The atmosphere evoked a fusion of Oliver Stone's style. financial world and James Bridges Bright lights, big city, combining the perfect wardrobe for powerful business women with the ideal outfit for the jet-set.

Always so elegant, the quintessential Tom Ford woman walks in both summer and winter in stiletto sandals, whether wrapped in sumptuous fur coats and navy peacoats adorned with gold buttons or glamorous evening dresses. As a confident working woman, her wardrobe featured an impressive array of three-piece suits with wide-lapel jackets, along with sexier ensembles with miniskirt suits or micro-short ensembles.

She has an affinity for leather, a sentiment echoed by her male counterpart, whom Peter Hawkings introduced on the runway for the first time Thursday night. Coats, particularly sheepskin, vinyl or crocodile, along with tight pants and bustiers, clung to his body like a second skin. Black suited him splendidly, especially when he wrapped himself in opulent velvet creations, accented by thick gold bracelets and necklaces, or more provocative mesh ensembles.

Meanwhile, in MM6, the same fervor permeated the air, although projected into a more contemporary, almost futuristic realm. Dressed in seemingly endless black ensembles or thigh-high gold boots, hugging their thigh-high legs, the models exuded Catwoman charm, their gazes veiled behind oversized black or red sunglasses.

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Always on the move, navigating between sleepless nights and busy days, jumping from plane to plane, they armed themselves with pillows or leather travel cushions, making blouses and minidresses from the same pillowcases, a testament to their ingenuity and adaptability.

Maison Margiela's contemporary line continued to push the boundaries of sartorial conventions, juxtaposing traditional garment construction with avant-garde deconstruction. Sleeveless men's jackets, raised at the shoulders, were repurposed as minidresses, while the armholes of the coats allowed the arms to slide out. Padded jackets or classic models were worn inside out and buttoned at the back, revealing their silky, colorful linings that transformed these sleeveless garments into elegant evening dresses.

Fun details complemented this quirky wardrobe. For example, zippers cross garments diagonally in the most unexpected places (on the back, chest, front and bottom of pants). The top lapel of one jacket was adorned with two pins in the shape of eyes and a safety pin holding a key. Frayed linings peeked out from some blouses, while several knitted pieces were torn and frayed in places.

The show also featured a series of footwear created in collaboration with Dr. Martens.

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At Emporio Armani, sophistication met ease, with pieces that harmoniously combined tailored refinement and casual insouciance through a dark palette of blacks, greys, blues and greens, accented with pops of purple. Classic gray wool trousers were perfectly combined with satin jackets, faux fur coats or soft blue or green mohair sweaters. Nylon pants, reminiscent of ski pants, offered practicality for rainy days, while tunic tops replaced traditional shirts. The three-piece suit alternated with feminine velvet ensembles and ethereal tulle skirts, adding versatility to the collection.

Ultimately, the Italian luxury house's youthful line struck a delicate balance between everyday fashion and understated sophistication, maintaining a sense of freshness with a poetic undertone. This sentiment was summed up at the end of the show, where models dressed in dark evening gowns, illuminated by bright stars and crescent moons, traversed the runway amid a flurry of snowflakes, sheltered under oversized umbrellas.

Reflecting on the collection, Giorgio Armani commented: “My goal was to achieve consistency in making garments that were not only visually striking but also wearable. While the collection featured some touches of extravagance and spectacle, each piece was still very adaptable. “Although the masculine influences were such as coats may have been presented, my designs are inherently feminine in essence.”