A day in the life of Rudolf Nureyev

A day in the life of Rudolf Nureyev, and much of the dancer's wardrobe, served as inspiration for Kim Jones' latest Dior men's collection.

A loving tribute also to Kim's uncle, Colin Jones, a former Royal Ballet dancer who became a talented photojournalist. So much so that Colin photodocumented a day in the life of Rudolf for Time Life magazine, capturing the Tatar dancer and choreographer comfortably in English parks and pubs. The images became a hardcover book and a charming gift for this show organized in a giant circus-style tent at the back of the Military School.

Dior's resulting collection captured everything memorable about Nureyev's aesthetic: a penchant for elegant 1960s London tailoring; and an endearing love for camp and a weakness for potent Asian elegance.

Kim opened with multiple references to Rudi's love of oversized shorts and plunging tops, worn under iridescent raincoats. Interspersed with wonderful silk and super fine wool suits, made with double-breasted jackets with the only button hidden. And the crisper coats in subtle gray and anthracite stripes, again wrapped and fastened with two offset buttons.

The dancer's signature painter's knotted cloth caps crowned most heads, and his silk matelassé dance shoes anchored many looks.

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In 1961, Nureyev defected to the West and slowly became a famous fashion icon. Jones is not the first LVMH to reference Nureyev. A decade ago, John Galliano organized a sexually charged tribute to the dancer: he left St. Petersburg in a legendary Russian beaver coat before launching into cross-dressing in the clubs of the '70s. This was Galliano's last exclusive show before he his career imploded in a furious rant, causing the collection to be instantly forgotten.

Jones had a gentler and much more opulent vision of Rudolf, and ended the show with a euphoric display of beautiful coats and blouses finely embroidered with snow crystals. From a stunning crystal mesh tunic and off-the-shoulder crocodile skin jacket to a toile de jouy tank top and matching backpack with silver thread embroidery and a shimmering anthracite crystal robe.

Although he cut a glorious swath across our universe, Nureyev's life was not the easiest. He was born on a Trans-Siberian train. His Tatar father reportedly beat him to prevent him from pursuing the unmanly profession of dancing. He died at age 54 of AIDS on the outskirts of Paris.

Jones was treated better by his male relatives, especially his uncle Michael, whose first wife, Lynn Seymour, frequently collaborated on Prokofiev ballet productions. Romeo and Juliet.

“Sadly, Colin passed away in 2021. However, he remains a great inspiration to me to this day. The Dior Winter 2024-2025 men's show is dedicated to the memory of Colin and his brother Michael, my late father,” reads Kim's introduction to the book of photographs and this fine and noble collection.