16Arlington Fall 2024 Runway, Fashion Show and Ready-to-Wear Collection Review


This season there have been some exhibitions within museums: Dunhill at the National Portrait Gallery; Harris Reed and Roksanda at the Tate Britain, and 16Arlington at the Barbican Centre, which was the only one daring enough to change the interiors by covering the entire space with a black fabric with beams of spotlights on the floor while the models entered from one side and left for another.

This was a monster story, and there was nowhere to hide inside Curve Gallery.

“It's this idea of ​​lurking behind the corners and the curve has no corners; it's just this continuous flow of concrete and you don't really know what's coming,” designer Marco Capaldo said during a previous interview.

“We see monsters in fairy tales and in society as quite scary things, but actually, beneath the surface, there is something very beautiful and endearing about them,” he added.

Capaldo focused on the works of author Charlie Fox, referencing his exhibition “My Head is a Haunted House” that took place at Sadie Coles headquarters in 2019 and his books “My Head is a Haunted House / Dracula's Wedding ” and “This young monster.” .”

It featured shades of monstrous purples and mint greens; leather skirts that looked like pimpled skin; prints that, when layered, create an illusion of smoke beneath the skin; a large black shearling coat half shaved to create a chevron print in a nod to the floor in the Fox exhibition; a stray dog ​​in mohair sweaters cited in Fox's book; high heels covered in furry sheepskin and toeless boots to give the impression of a monster trying to escape from inside a body.

Capaldo titled the show “I'm Not Sorry, It's Human Nature,” a tribute to the American pop star's 1994 song “Human Nature.”

While researching the collection, she came across a video of Madonna from 2016 accepting the Woman of the Year award at the Billboard Women in Music Awards.

“Society has turned her into a villain and for some she has had a controversial career, but has she really had one? Or has she simply been outside of what is considered normal? “What really caught my attention about that interview was that she said that the most controversial thing she has done in her career has been to stay,” Capaldo said.

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