What you need to know about this London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week (LFW) has launched the careers of fashion legends such as Stella McCartney, Victoria Beckham and the late Alexander McQueen.

While many of those designers have taken their collections elsewhere (showing at events such as Paris Fashion Week), there are thankfully still plenty of exciting British and international designers left to look forward to as LFW celebrates its 40th anniversary.

Of the so-called “big four” – along with New York, Milan and Paris – London has a reputation for being young and innovative, and incredibly welcoming to emerging designers who could soon become big players.

And the upcoming spring/summer 2025 season, taking place from 12-17 September, will showcase just how much talent there is in the UK. With new designers to keep an eye on alongside stalwarts such as Burberry and JW Anderson, here's what you need to know about this London Fashion Week…

New names

The British Fashion Council's Newgen initiative was established in 1993 to support the best emerging talent in fashion design, and this season's line-up certainly doesn't disappoint.

Seven new designers will emerge under the scheme, including Steve O Smith, Pauline Dujancourt and Yaku Stapleton. Stapleton won the prestigious L’Oréal’s Professionnel Creative Award for his ‘haute couture costume design’ collection for the MA Costume Design at Central Saint Martins in 2023, which included reptile-shaped quilted jackets and moon boots made from recycled patterned paper and leftover rubbish – perhaps a nod to the industry’s wasteful track record.

Standing Ground, Karoline Vitto and Johanna Parv will also be staging stand-alone shows on Saturday, Sunday and Monday of London Fashion Week.

London-based Brazilian designer Vitto made history at Milan Fashion Week last year, presenting her spring/summer 2024 collection with a curvy cast complete with model Ashley Graham – the show was supported by Dolce & Gabbana.

The Newgen catwalk is changing location this season, moving from the former Selfridges hotel to its old home at 180 The Strand. The move reflects a return to tradition as the event celebrates its 40th anniversary.

Focus on sustainability

This year, LFW has made a conscious effort to listen to its critics and become more sustainable. The event continues to enforce its fur ban (which is not in effect in cities like Milan and Paris), reflecting a greater commitment to animal welfare policies and sustainability.

Many designers are integrating eco-friendly practices, such as publishing custom sustainability goals, and the British Fashion Council is pushing for adherence to the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). This shift is critical for spring/summer 2024 collections and events, and it will be interesting to see whether brands fully embrace standards that fit their style.

Old Faithful

As exciting as it is to see new names appearing on the agenda, London is holding firm with a handful of old British faithfuls, including Richard Quinn and the Princess of Wales' favourite brands Erdem, Burberry and Roksanda.

Returning designers and missing names

Designer Nensi Dojaka, who won the 2021 LVMH Prize, has been absent for the past two seasons, and last showed a collection for the spring/summer 2024 show via a lookbook. The Albanian-born fashion designer created her eponymous label shortly after graduating from the prestigious master’s course at Central Saint Martins in 2019, and her designs have been worn by the likes of Hailey Bieber, Emma Corrin and Olivia Rodrigo.

This season, Dojaka returns to the lineup in a large Saturday night slot, bringing her signature aesthetic of sheer styles and figure-hugging silhouettes to London.

British-American designer Harris Reed, who also runs French fashion label Nina Ricci, is also officially on the agenda for the first time, having made a name for himself with his legendary Thursday night shows over the past few years, which have featured the likes of actress Florence Pugh and model Ashley Graham.

While they are welcome additions, some big names are missing, including Molly Goddard (known for her voluminous tulle designs) and Dilara Findikoglu.