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Fashion has always been a tool of political expression. Style choices have power and often function as a reflection of our times.
It is something that Keir Starmer, now set to become the UK’s new Labour prime minister, replacing his Conservative predecessor Rishi Sunak after the landslide election victory, will have seized on to help get messages across to the public and build the desired image he wants to present as a politician.
“We often spend time looking at how female politicians dress, but there are good reasons to look at men just as often. There is a long history of politicians using clothes to get a message across,” says Dr Tim Ellis-Dale, Senior Lecturer in Political History and Masculinity at Teesside University.
“Togas indicated your rank in ancient Rome, and late European kings up until the 18th century dressed in exuberant colors to convey their wealth and power.
“Men’s clothing became a little more boring and standardised in the 19th century, but even then, it was a subtle way of expressing who you are and what you stand for,” Ellis-Dale adds. “In the 20th century, more left-wing politicians sometimes eschewed formal dress to make an egalitarian gesture, while fascist politicians often wore political uniforms to express their power and authority.”
So what does Starmer's fashion reveal about the UK's new leader?
A sense of stability
Ellis-Dale believes Starmer's main aim in this election was to convey a sense of stability, normality and consistency.
“It is therefore not surprising that he has continued to wear the same shirt and tie combination. A smart suit usually conveys seriousness and professionalism, and by wearing it, Starmer will be trying to show that he can bring stability back to British politics,” he said.
“Seeing the same item of clothing over and over again also conveys consistency. Consistency creates a sense of familiarity, and that in turn can build trust.”
A relaxed edge
While Starmer strives to be seen as a professional and respectable politician, Ellis-Dale believes there is more to his sartorial goals than that.
“At the same time, he has an interesting side that is not talked about. He is willing to show a more relaxed version of himself, which is why we see him wearing Stone Island T-shirts,” observes Ellis-Dale.
“This has led to references to him as a ‘football and Peroni dad’, which makes him more relatable.”
Discreet options
Starmer’s fashion choices aren’t exactly eye-catching either. “But not doing anything that catches the eye is a fashion choice in itself, indicating his preference for people to focus on the substance of his policies and their output, rather than the man behind them,” Ellis-Dale adds.
Reliable and pragmatic
According to men's personal stylist and buyer Nick Hems, Starmer's style offers a window into his personality and priorities.
“He always frames his face well, with suits that fit well at the neck and well-sized shirt collars. He pays a lot of attention to his hair,” Hems notes, “and he recently adopted glasses that flatter the shape of his face, ensuring that people are drawn to his face and can easily focus on his words.”
Hems continues: “While she clearly cares about her appearance and invests in her wardrobe, she doesn’t identify with a specific fashion style like Rishi Sunak. She seems indifferent to the excitement of choosing what to wear.
“Like many men, Starmer seems to shop with a ‘get it done’ mentality. His suits, probably bought in stores, sometimes have sleeves that cover his hands, failing to show a critical centimetre of shirt cuff.”
Authentic
Celebrity stylist and designer Kelsey Norris believes Starmer is “a man of the people” whose style reflects simplicity and authenticity.
“He’s an Arsenal fan who loves football and his family. He shops on the high street and wears affordable brands that reflect UK subculture and streetwear. His suits are more Suit Supply than Savile Row,” he explains.
“By contrast, Rishi Sunak comes from a wealthier background and has no qualms about flaunting it, sporting quilted jackets from Canada Goose (£1,250) and tailored suits from Bloomsbury tailor Henry Herbert (reportedly £3,500).”
Footwear is another area where their tastes diverge.
“Five pairs of shoes from Starmer’s collection would cost less than a pair of Rishi Sunak’s beloved Prada loafers,” suggests Norris. “You can find Keir keeping a low profile in eco-friendly trainers from brands such as Adidas (£90), Converse (£50) and Veja (£120).”
Style tips for Starmer
Hems says there are some common style mistakes that Starmer and many other men fall into, including “buttoning the last button of a suit jacket – a surprising habit for someone who has worn suits for much of his life”.
She adds: “He also sometimes wears dark-coloured shirts that don’t suit him or his suits. This indicates that, although he cares about his appearance, fashion is not a primary concern for him, and it doesn’t have to be.”
Menswear style expert Phill Tarling agrees and thinks Starmer could improve his sartorial style now.
“A well-fitting suit is important for a prime minister because it conveys professionalism, authority and attention to detail, which are essential qualities for a leader in the public eye.
“However, ill-fitting or loose-fitting suits send a message of carelessness and lack of attention to detail. They suggest that you don’t care about your appearance, which can be perceived as unprofessional and sloppy.”
