This is the best carrot cake. More carrots, more glaze, more everything


My mother married when I was 30 years old. Already on my way as a food professional, I decided to make your wedding cake. Or wedding Cakes.

I didn't want to risk a spooky striped stripe in itself or look like an inclined tower. So I decided to bake half a dozen 9 -inch round cakes and dress them with bougainvillea flowers, arranged, like floral halos that flow by each. There was never any questions about what type of cakes do: carrot cake with orange cream cheese.

The carrot cake is a fast bread based on a cake of a cake moistened with grated carrots, sweet spices red and always Cleo cheese glazed spoon: the only question is, how much?

The recipes of the 1970s generally required approximately a cup of carrots grated per cup of flour. Over the decades, the amount of carrots in many recipes has been reduced up to two cup per cup of flour and more recently up to three cups. Interestingly, no matter how many carrots add, the carrot cake has nothing like carrots, but it has a profile of its own flavor.

What additional carrots achieve is to make the cake more wet, darker and more terrestrial. For me, there is nothing more disappointing in a carrot cake than one that is light color and is aerated as, well, cake With carrots stains. The carrot cake must be wet but not oil. Dense but not Fudgy. Loaded with nuts. (I prefer nuts about nuts, but you do your thing. Just be sure to toast them before adding them to the dough).

Cream cheese glaze receives citrus treatment with a little freshly squeezed orange juice and finely grated orange zest. Add toasted nuts if you wish.

(Rebecca Peloquin / for the Times)

I am also going big in spices: cinnamon, nail, pepper of Jama of all (nutmeg, if you are so inclined) and vanilla. And I add grated fresh ginger, because a good carrot cake has a gingerbread quality. (I don't care about the raisins in my carrot cake, but the carrot cake is indulgent; if you want to add raisins, it is a free world).

Where, when or by whom the carrot cake was invented. We take the idea of ​​carrots in a cake, but think about it: somewhere in the world (I like to think it was Berkeley), somewhere in time (the evidence suggests that it was the 1970s), there was a human being who decided to put carrots grated in the cake mass!

People, even chefs and chefs and bakers, have reached the status of icon for less. Jean-Georges Vongerichten Chocolate cake underestimated, giving birth to the molten chocolate cake (“Lava”). Wolfgang Puck put smoked salmon on the pizza (because, according to the reports, he ran out of bread for Joan Collins, who wanted smoked salmon).

A woman uses a hand blender in a cake glaze bowl
A woman in an apron is a cake.

The writer Carolynn Carreño raises her cream cheese glaze, made with fresh orange juice and orange zest, in the Los Angeles Times test kitchen. (Rebecca Peloquin / for the Times)

But carrots, Kidneyaw Carrots, in cake. Why this person did not get due seems unfair, but perhaps it is because they were an anonymous hippie of the health nut, in which case they would not care about something as mundane as fame. Who invented it, the health fashion of the 1970s put the carrot cake in the national menu, and that is how it came to play such a prominent role in my life.

My mother was too glamorous with her flared jeans and silk shirts to be considered hippie, although she drove a truck with a mural painted outside and carpets and furniture inside. But she was a self -proclaimed “health nut.” The only bread that was allowed to eat was Orooweat honey wheat ber, because it was brown and contained visible seeds and grains. And the only allowed cereals were there and 100% natural quaker, also known as “Granola”. Except for the decorated cakes of the local bakery that he ordered for our birthdays, the only cake he baked was, you guessed, carrot cake.

The version of my mother, the recipe for which she cut a newspaper that was so soaked in oil that became transparent, was a burnished brown tone that evoked something substantial, mysterious and perhaps even healthy, with glaze made of cream cheese whipped with powdered sugar and an orange juice track, without butter involved. A true California cake if there was ever one.

I made that carrot cake throughout my childhood. I baked them, meé and served them from a pyrex plate of 9 by 11 inches. (I had no idea how to get a cake from a pan, or that it was supposed to do it. My American flag for July 4 was so stained and careless that my attempt of patriotism could have been a serious crime.

Carrot cake in a wire rack, a corner piece cut and sitting next
A piece of carrot cake with orange cream cheese glaze on a plate on a pile of plates

(Rebecca Peloquin / for the Times)

This year, inspired by the beautiful carrots in the farmers market, Springtime and my mother, whose 87th birthday is April 21 (happy birthday, mom!), I decided to visit the Carrot Cake.

I referred to my mother's old recipe, transferred a long time ago to fat -spotted index cards; two from Nancy Silverton (I co -written her five most recent books); And two more: one of Sally's baked addiction and another of the King Arthur Flour website. And I did cakes. It was then that I realized that all these cakes had very similar proportions of a cup of flour, a cup of sugar and two eggs for each layer of a cake. Carrots, as I mentioned, have increased three times. I broke and mixed and brought several versions along with a selection of cream cheese glasses to my morning coffee klatch to obtain comments, until I wasted in my ideal.

“Everyone is very elice,” said my friend Allen, after trying her seventh carrot cake in Klatch. (If there is something that I have learned in this work, it is that people love that they ask their opinion as much as they love the cake for free for breakfast).

By Moosewood, Allen referred to “The Moosewood Cookbook”, an innovative vegetarian cookbook that came out of the Moosewood workers collective in Ithaca, New York, in the 1970s and evokes a certain community life atmosphere. By “very moosewood”, we both understood that he referred to the fact that the cake was not refined, maybe even aspiring to be healthy.

“The carrot cake is supposed to be Moosewood,” I said. “From what we know, Moosewood invented the carrot cake.”

Unfortunately, we will probably never know who invented the carrot cake. But it doesn't matter, because the carrot cake continues to be reinvented. It is people's cake. A peaceful warrior. His self -expression tolerance is part of the attractiveness of the carrot cake.

Change the nuts. Add a great handful of dry fruits. Continue, add the canned pineapple or a cup of apple puree if necessary. (I never do it. Use integral wheat flour instead of white flour or olive oil instead of vegetable oil, and nothing bad will happen (I barely notice a difference with either of them). Some bakers these days even replace carrots with chirivías, pumpkin, rutabaga or sweet potatoes.

Far, I know.

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