One video begins with a large white leather bag with Louis Vuitton's classic LV logo all over it. After a few milliseconds, a hand with a knife opens a huge gash in one side of the bag before tearing it at the seams. In another video, Christian Louboutin's signature red sole is ripped off a black high-heeled shoe with a wrench; In one more, scissors cut through a $2,200 Prada handbag before a man sets fire to a piece of the leather, burning it to ashes.
It has arrived in the TikTok world of Tanner Leatherstein, who has more than 950,000 followers. Leatherstein, whose real name is Volkan Yilmaz, has formed a cult following on this social media platform — and also on YouTube and Instagram — who are drawn to how he butchers exorbitantly expensive items. The reason for this, he says, is to show his viewers the quality of the materials and craftsmanship, as well as to break down how much the item may have cost to make.
“In many cases,” Yilmaz said from his Dallas workshop in December, “my calculations are one-tenth of what the label says. “The markups that support the luxury business continue to surprise many people.”
In the interview below, Yilmaz, 37, talks about her obsession with leather, how much she spends on luxury products, and what to consider when purchasing leather goods.
When did your passion for leather products begin?
My family had a tannery in Türkiye, so I was born into the business. When I was 11, I tanned five sheepskins to make my first leather jacket. While studying at university in Istanbul, I worked in the tannery, then went to China to learn about importing and exporting fur and then to Turkmenistan.
In 2009, I won the US green card lottery and moved to Chicago. I was a taxi driver while pursuing an MBA at the University of Illinois, and then I worked as a management consultant, which made me feel like I was dying inside. I was still obsessed with leather, so I started my own leather goods brand called Pegai, while learning about design on YouTube and driving an Uber to make ends meet. In 2019, when the business was already up and running, I moved to Dallas.
Why did you start creating content for social media?
My friends and even friends of my friends have always asked me to review the leather goods they buy. What is your opinion about the quality? Did they pay too much?
I realized that people don't know much about how leather is sourced or used and are wary of the markups on these products from luxury brands. So I started recording videos to answer their questions. I didn't expect them to have the popularity they have had.
More than anything else, you're famous for tearing up bags. Why do you do it?
When I started analyzing bags, I wanted to show that price had nothing to do with the leather or materials used, but rather with the status associated with a brand. Many people automatically think that if it's expensive, it must be good.
What was the first bag you cut?
It was a Louis Vuitton briefcase. Louis Vuitton is one of the most famous leather goods brands in the world, but many people don't know that the iconic LV monogram material is actually canvas. The first video that went viral was of a small $1,200 Chanel purse. Since then, requests to include different brands have not stopped coming.
What do you look for when you cut a bag?
The quality of the leather, of course. How he got tough. I use acetone to remove the finish, and I can see how much plastic paint has been applied to the leather. I burn the hide to determine what tanning process is used. Then I looked at the craftsmanship, which is reflected in the stitching, hardware, and construction.
A big part of my job is evaluating brand claims. A bag may look good on the outside, but when you open it and look inside, it tells a different story.
Who are the almost two million followers you have on social networks?
There is certainly a demographic that hates luxury brands, period, that thinks the prices are a scam and that the people who pay for these products are stupid. There are also people who love the entertainment of breaking down expensive products. But many people watch the videos because they love luxury and want to better understand quality products. They want to value their vintage or luxury purchases with their eyes wide open.
What brands are worth what they cost?
Bottega Veneta uses some amazing leathers, and has made three or four videos about their beautiful products. Although in a video about a $650 wallet, the cut and lining was made of a lower quality leather than described on the label (Bottega did not respond to a request for comment).
I really like a Scottish brand called Strathberry. They make their products in Ubrique, a small town in Spain where brands like Loewe and Dior also make their products, but Strathberry costs a fraction of what these, about $500 instead of $3000. Polene is another great brand made by people who really He knows what he does. Coach is pretty good for a medium price.
Are you ever surprised by what you find?
I'm not positively shocked: I'm paying a lot of money. It's great if we can prove that a bag has a great material and design, but that should be the norm.
Do brands contact you now?
The truth is no, and even less so in the realm of luxury. I do not accept free items or advertising opportunities. People will only trust me if I am totally independent.
Many people gave or received leather goods during the holidays. Do you have any advice for them?
Trust your senses. Feel it. If it looks like plastic, that's not a good sign. Smell it. There is no single leather smell, but quality leather has a pleasant, slightly earthy aroma. It should not smell like chemicals.
Look good. Leather is a product of animal origin. It presents variations in the structure of its fiber and grain layer. The more variations you see in the fabric, the more natural and untreated it is. If you go overboard with a heavy finish, the leather becomes standardized and lower quality hides are hidden.
Elizabeth Paton reports on the global fashion industry for the Times, a topic she has covered for more than a decade. She lives in London. More by Elizabeth Paton
