Sam Smith wore not one, but two outfits on the runway for the Vivienne Westwood show at Paris Fashion Week.
The Unholy singer's dual ensembles summed up the aesthetic of creative director Andreas Kronthaler's new experimental collection.
The first ensemble focused on deconstructed tartan: Smith wore shorts and a scarf-inspired jacket, along with dizzying platform boots and a hat, all in different tartan styles. The look was completed with a green sweater, argyle socks and a wooden cane.
Tartan has long been a central element of the Vivienne Westwood brand, ever since the eponymous designer rose to fame with her punk and countercultural designs in the 1970s.
Dame Vivienne died in December 2022 and her husband, Austrian designer Kronthaler, assumed full creative control of the brand.
The collection was filled with classic Westwood references, such as the extremely high platform shoes worn by Smith and many of the models.
In the past, models have fallen on the runway in these dizzying shoes; The most famous case was when Naomi Campbell fell in the early 1990s.
Smith's second look had a more gothic feel: a floor-length dress with a cut-out pattern, worn with a halter-neck blouse underneath and a funereal black hat.
And Smith wasn't the only recognizable face on the runway. They were also joined by Lila Moss, the daughter of supermodel Kate.
She wore a textured light blue dress that appeared to have a pair of gloves and a hood built in, as well as a black bustier with studs on top.
Lila continues Moss' legacy at Vivienne Westwood: in the '90s, Kate was a familiar face on the brand's runways. One of her most notable appearances was for the spring/summer 1994 collection, when she walked the runway topless, wearing a skimpy miniskirt and eating ice cream.
Smith and Lila Moss' outfits felt like old-school Westwood, drawing on historical references and giving them a punk feel.
A mix of influences and inspirations ran throughout the collection, from jockstraps that looked like codpieces to dramatic tops with exaggerated shoulders that almost looked like football players' uniforms, as well as eighties-inspired pieces like the large conical bra corset blue.
But there were also plenty of futuristic touches, and elements like the hooded suits and thick smears of white makeup under the models' eyes didn't seem out of place on the new Dune: Part Two film set.
The front row also had a futuristic feel, with American actress Julia Fox looking straight out of a sci-fi movie in a bright green corset dress with faded browns and gold details.
She was joined by American influencer Emma Chamberlain, who wore a black skirt suit with exaggerated shoulders and a spiky hairstyle.
At first glance, Kronthaler's latest offering for Vivienne Westwood may not seem like a very wearable collection. The way the clothes were put together was somewhat chaotic, with lots of clashing patterns and materials.
This tumultuous energy was accompanied by the performance that accompanied the show, where three musicians made guttural sounds into the microphones, while playing instruments such as the violin, dancing and tapping their feet.
But if you look closer, there are many pieces in the collection that could be worn by less experimental people, particularly some of the shirts, boots and bags that walked the runway.
The clothes may not be for everyone, but there's no denying that Kronthaler is pushing the boundaries of fashion and continues to have one of the most unique and interesting shows on the Paris Fashion Week calendar.
