If you've ever held a pastel yellow box full of Cuban pastries in Los Angeles, chances are you've tasted the legacy of Raúl Porto Sr. On Wednesday, the patriarch and co-founder of Porto's, one of the most popular bakeries in the region. chains, he died at the age of 92.
The Porto company shared the news in an Instagram post on Friday morning, adding that he died peacefully, surrounded by his family. Porto and his late wife, baker and co-founder Rosa Porto, helped generations of Cuban immigrants find a taste of home and popularized regional specialties such as stuffed and fried potato balls or stuffed potatoes; pressed Cuban sandwiches; and their “refugees,” or guava and cheese pastries. His cakes are so popular that even just one variety can sell tens of thousands in a month.
“Porto's has become its own language, to the point that its baked and hot foods no longer just represent Cuba, but have come to represent Los Angeles,” said former LA Times food columnist Lucas Kwan Peterson. . he wrote in a review last year.
Rosa Porto died in 2019 at the age of 89. Rosa and Raúl Sr. are survived by generations of Portos, including several grandchildren. Their three children, Beatriz, Raúl Jr. and Margarita, grew up helping in their parents' bakery and later headed into the business themselves.
The Portos, from Manzanillo, Cuba, had hoped to move to the United States for years and were placed on a waiting list during Fidel Castro's government, a period in which Raúl Porto Sr. was sent to a labor camp while Rosa Porto lost his work. He began baking Dominican cakes and pastries to support the family and took those recipes with her when they emigrated in 1971 to build a better life.
Orders for the cakes began immediately and the couple sold their treats from their home kitchen for years.
When the Portos arrived in Los Angeles, Raúl Porto Sr. found work as a janitor and other jobs while his wife's underground baking business took off, and together they turned Porto into an L.A. legend.
“Raúl Sr. helped whenever he could, even while working at another local bakery,” the Porto family shared on Instagram. “After several years, he was able to join Rosa full time, dedicating himself to growing his business. Through her hard work, humility, and dedication, they transformed a small family effort into a treasured community treasure. Known for his humble nature, Raúl Sr. balanced his roles as a husband, father and devoted businessman, inspiring all who knew him with his passion and commitment.”
The Porto empire began humbly with a first store of just 300 square feet in a Silver Lake shopping center in 1976, paid for with a bank loan. In an effort to attract customers, they expanded beyond Cuban pastries and served delicacies that appealed to various cultures: Danish pastries, fruit tarts, muffins and more. That acceptance of other products and cultures helped his bakery stay relevant, which no doubt contributed to the local chain's broad appeal for decades. In 1982, Porto moved to Glendale and eventually expanded to Burbank, Downey, Buena Park, West Covina and Northridge. There is a location scheduled for Downtown Disney in Anaheim.
“We want to express our sincerest gratitude for the overwhelming outpouring of love and support we have received following the passing of our beloved father, grandfather and great-grandfather, Raúl Porto Sr.,” the Porto family said in an email to the Los Angeles Times. “All the kind words and memories shared have been a great comfort to us during this time of loss.
As we go through our pain, we are deeply moved by the affection we have received. His tributes show the impact he had on so many lives and for that we will be eternally grateful. Thank you for honoring his legacy with us.”