Although the launch of the 2024 Michelin Guide to California restaurants is still months away, the world-famous guide has just teased seven new additions, and three of them are in Los Angeles.
The Michelin Guide awards star ratings, and earning a “star” from the company is widely considered one of the greatest achievements in the service industry. One star means “a very good restaurant in its category”, while two stars indicate “excellent cuisine, worthy of a detour” and a three-star rating translates to “exceptional cuisine, worthy of a special trip”.
Additions announced before the annual guide's reveal could mean these restaurants will earn a star, or they could be highlighted as “new” or in another category, such as the value-oriented Bib Gourmand.
“I'm very proud of where we've come to now,” said Hibi owner Sol Lee, who saw his restaurant's inclusion in the guide on Tuesday. “When I opened Hibi, Michelin wasn't even in my mindset… And it just goes to show that hard work, commitment and consistency are what really bring you things like this.”
hibi open this summer in a Koreatown shopping center with a focus on Japanese cuisine and as a more casual restaurant. Now, Lee says, “it's a completely different restaurant,” and Michelin took notice. “Hibi may have started as a casual concept,” Michelin wrote, “but it has changed course and is firmly rooted in the fine dining scene.”
Hibi binchotan grilled maitake mushroom with egg dashi puree and fermented mushroom powder.
(Sun Lee/Hibi)
Hoping to not only sustain itself but become a destination, Lee, who also runs Hibi with his brother, Albert Lee, tapped chef Daniel Kim (formerly of Providence, Meadowood restaurant Le Cirque) in August to helm the kitchen. As chef and partner, Kim has transformed Hibi into a more modern Japanese and Korean restaurant with complex dishes such as bluefin tuna with winter truffle vinaigrette and puffed rice; Dry Aged Short Rib Gyoza with Parmesan; and grilled binchotan abalone. Although currently a la carte, the restaurant plans to move to a tasting menu format starting in early 2024.
“I think what we should do is take it day by day, have fun,” Sol Lee said. “I want to come to work and really enjoy the day instead of constantly chasing something that may not even be possible in a space like ours. I am already very proud of what we achieved. That being said, obviously if a star comes our way, it would be a blessing.”
Modern Korean restaurant Baroo is also one of the newest additions to the guide and the reincarnation of chef and co-founder Kwang Uh's previous casual Baroo, which closed in 2018. The new Baroo, located in the Arts District, was recently named winner of the LA Times 101 List and one of the most essential restaurants in the region. It is run by Uh and his wife and business partner, Mina Park, and offers only a tasting menu format.
Michelin highlights Baroo's “elegant” interior, its options for alcoholic and non-alcoholic drink tastings, and dishes like “well-seared Hokkaido scallops in a pool of watercress sauce with diced seaweed gelatin and puffed rice.”
At Olivia Restaurant and Wine Bar in Koreatown, produce takes center stage on chef Mario Alberto's globally inspired menu. Michelin noted that the vegetarian restaurant with extensive vegan offerings “enchants from its intimate dining room where the marble tables are covered with candles and flowers.”
While the pizzas at Olivia have become popular (and were heralded by LA Times critic Bill Addison as Some of the best new pizza in town. — the guide also highlights the Mexican and Korean influences found throughout the menu in dishes like fried squash blossoms stuffed with macadamia ricotta and pepita sauce and fried oyster mushrooms with gochujang.
Potato and kimchee pizza at Olivia in Koreatown.
(Bill Addison/Los Angeles Times)
Beyond Los Angeles, new additions can be found in San Diego with La Jolla's Paradisaea, and in San Francisco with Dalida, Kiln and Movida.
The 2023 California guide, announced in July, included 614 restaurants, of which 87 earned stars, some for the first time, including Long Beach's first star with A one star rating for Heritage Restaurant's tasting menu.. Even more were awarded the Bib Gourmand designationincluding four new options in the Los Angeles area: Villa's Tacos in Highland Park, Cobi's in Santa Monica, Carnes Asadas Pancho Lopez in Lincoln Heights and Eat Joy Food in Rowland Heights.
For many, the simple designation as a new or featured restaurant is cause for celebration. For Villa's Tacos founder Victor Villa, his Bib Gourmand served as positive reinforcement for the quality he already felt his team was achieving: “It's amazing to be recognized by one of the most elite food companies in the world,” he told The Times previously. year.
The unveiling date and location of the 2024 Michelin California guide have yet to be announced.
