There's no substitute for the low tables and frenetic energy of Holy Basil Thai restaurant, but it's possible to recreate some of chef Wedchayan “Deau” Arpapornnopparat's culinary magic at home. At his downtown and Atwater Village restaurants, he and his partner Tongkamal “Joy” Yuon savor vibrant curries, seafood specialties, and Thai street food classics like kai jiew, the iconic, fluffy Thai fried omelet.
“It's such a simple dish,” he said, “that it may be the first thing you learn to cook in Thailand. Your mom will probably say, 'Hey, can you help me make kai jiew?'”
Accompany the omelet with prik nam pla, a classic Thai condiment that balances the salt and flavor of the fish sauce with sugar, all accompanied by plenty of freshly squeezed lemon juice and aromatics such as garlic, chilies and cilantro. Arpapornnopparat prefers to prepare his prik nam pla about an hour in advance so that the flavors can fully combine.
Don't let the two cups of oil in the tortilla scare you. Arpapornnopparat says that the amount of oil is what maintains a high temperature for the egg to fry; Without it, the eggs would lack that characteristic fluffy consistency that distinguishes kai jiew from other fried eggs.
Since the oil should reach 400 degrees, it is best to use an infrared thermometer gun or deep-frying thermometer to periodically check the heat; These can be found widely online or at most major home improvement stores for between $15 and $20. As for pans, Arpapornnopparat recommends using an 8-inch pan, which will ensure the correct diameter of the omelette; A slightly larger frying pan can be used, although you will need to maintain the shape of the eggs while frying. To protect against oil spills, be sure to leave at least 1 inch of space between the oil and the edge of the pan before adding the eggs.
At Holy Basil Arpapornnopparat opts for rice bran oil and serves the kai jiew more simply (with plain egg topped with white pepper and coriander), but at home the chef says he prefers to cook the omelet this way, with shallots, Fish sauce, chilies and garlic flavor the eggs as they fry.
Try this omelet and prik nam pla alone or with rice; With rice, this recipe easily feeds two.
