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In recent years, the dark side of jewelry mining has been coming to light. The social and environmental risks of mining have been exposed, as well as ethical concerns surrounding dangerous working conditions and extensive soil degradation and water pollution.
Monica Vinader, founder of the silent luxury brand that bears her name, set out to change this path that many jewelers were blindly following, perhaps unconsciously. “The system seemed quite opaque and I wanted to know what to mine [my products] “Where it came from, so I could take responsibility for the product I was using,” says Vinader.
“For me, the only way to ensure accountability was through traceability.”
Vinader and his team developed an industry-first product passport. After discovering that 88% of the carbon footprint of companies was due to gemstones, Vinader decided to investigate the origin of the gemstones. “We created a three-step due diligence program with a woman named Nawal Aït-Hocine, who we had worked with at the Responsible Jewelry Council.
“It helped us organize a bespoke audit exclusively for gemstones that requires the supplier to have thorough certifications and qualifications along with our passport, so that it is not just hearsay.”
Vinader’s new collection, Odyssey, focuses on aquamarine, an over-exploited gemstone. The collection has partnered with a new supplier from Zimbabwe, called Zimbaqua, the only mine in Africa managed and operated exclusively by women.
“Zimbaqua was the first mine where, from the beginning, I was able to go and see the whole process,” says Vinader. “My team would see these raw pieces of aquamarine that were then cut into intricate shapes for Odyssey, which has become the culmination of this journey around gemstone traceability.
“It has been a process not only to clear my conscience, but also to show my clients that there is are “There are some mines that are doing things really well and those are the only ones I want to work with.”
The new collection is steeped in cultural and Hellenistic references. “Odyssey is rooted in craftsmanship, simplicity and MV’s sculptural identity,” says Vinader, “and embodies that tactile, ancient feel. We wanted the stones to have really sharp facets in that vibrant aquamarine color, which really contrasts with the organic shapes of the collection.”
According to Vinader, traceability is the only answer to accountability, so this product passport will surely become mandatory in the industry soon. “I don’t think so for now,” says Vinader. “There have been rumours that it could be mandatory in the fashion industry, but I hope that many other jewellery brands will adopt it before the legislation is enacted.”
“I haven't thought about whether I should do it according to the law, but whether it is the right thing to do. I think many clients are now appreciating the importance of the provenance of their beautiful pieces.”
The new Odyssey collection is available from August 5th at Monica Vinader.
